I am in the same boat and wanting to get more in multiplay. Fining I need to fine tune to be more competitive. 3-5 sec off on many tracks
Hello, first of all, thank you very much for these info. For the fist time, I was able to set my car to make it comfortable to drive. But, here is the problem: Even if everything looks good, the car has no oversteer, understeer, tire temperature is OK too...but still, I have to start braking much earlier than others, same as others are way faster in corners. Please, could you advise me, what setting should be checked in this case? Thanks again.
First question would be if you are in the same car as the others, since there may just be car to car differences. The rear wing is almost completely useless on most gt3 cars, assuming we are talking about those. More than a 1-3 clicks on most cars adds nothing but drag and understeer. Apart from that, if the car feels good, you might have to see what you can improve as a driver. that will always be the most important factor. Setups can help, but you still have to be able to fully utilise the car's potential to be quick
Yes, same car. "you might have to see what you can improve as a driver" thats exactly, what I was afraid of )) Strange thing is, I am able to make comparable times with the best in AC, but far from that in R3E, same as RF2. yes, AC is definitely easier, maybe this is the point. But still, if I see that I have to start braking 2-3 meters earlies as the best driver, I hope (but not sure), it is not the skill, it is just settings.
impressive if you can see a 2-3 meters difference! There are so many subtle things you can do differently in driving, it is always difficult to determine what is the driver and what is the setup. When you get to these details the only way to really tell is to have both setups and compare them.
If you can take a look at your data against some of the fast guys you will weep, top drivers will trail the brakes right to the apex then accelerate immediately. If you challenge a top of the leaderboard chap you will find you will lose 10ths on every corner entry, mid corner and exit, soul destroying but there's no better way of finding your flaws and then eradicating them, bit by bit, have taken seconds off my time just by understanding that, if set up right, corners can be taken at a ridiculously fast pace, resulting in hitting the straights faster, which in turn drops your lap time even more, multiply that by 10 plus corners and a couple straights and you'll carve seconds off your best times. Now to put the kibosh on it all, this can only be achieved by hours upon hours of repetitive practice, there's no short cuts, just hours of dedication. It's also very useful if you can understand and feel what tweek, to what, in the set up will make you quicker, again this means making one small adjustment then hitting the track yet again. Dedication sums it up imho, if you want to be good at anything, you gotta put the time in, sucks, why can't I just pop into the chemists and grab a Senna pill?
Very true, one big tip I can give you is to never make setup adjustments in leaderboards. Make your setups in a practice session, as the tire temperature plays a huge role in performance and in diagnosing the setup too. And ALWAYS make your setup comfortable to drive, do not sacrifice that comfort for a slight bit of speed, unless it is for qualifying, but even there a more comfortable setup will usually give you the best results
"impressive if you can see a 2-3 meters difference!" of course I am not able to - it was an example OK, thank you for your comments
OK, I would very like to ask you a question about setup settings. Car:BMW M4 DTM 2015 Track:Road Americe At start I got a huge oversteer at all directions. So I: 1) adjust rear and rear springs and fron springs. It gets much better, but still oversteer, so 2) I Increase front bump and increase rear rebound, go for maxumum vaules, and the oversteer at corner entry was goneOK, but still little oversteer in mid corner...so 3) Stiffen front ARB and soften rear ARB also max values, and ok, mid corner oversteer dissapear...OK, but STILL I GOT oversteer at corner exit...BUT wait....to change behaviour a should Decrease front bump and decrease rear rebound ??? but in this case, I will get oversteer in corner entry I hoped setting Rebound to negativ values from Bump will help...but it didnt. so.... I am stuck with this....any help, or advice what I am doing wrong?
Your down to fine tuning now. So your doing too much at once. Only change one thing at a time. Only stiffen the rear arb and leave the front alone. Run some laps, then fiddle with the front arb One thing at a time
[QUOTE = "GregoryLeo, příspěvek: 118812, člen: 581"] Zajímalo by mě, jestli je někdo z devů, nebo někdo jiný na to záleží. Mohl byste prosím vysvětlit, co zvyšuje a snižuje nastavení nárazu a odskoku na manipulaci s vozy. Chápu všechno ostatní. Ale zdá se, že ty dva uniknou mému chápání. Celá dokumentace, kterou jsem četla, o nich hovoří rychle a pomalu. A ani se nezdá, že se zde hodí. Pro mě přinejmenším. Byl jsem s GT3 merc amg a byl naprosto frustrován tím, že jsem na něm hnal. Takže na rozmaru jsem upustil odskočit téměř na nic. což bylo něco, co jsem pochopil z toho, co jsem četl. A najednou získal kolo kolem 1,5 sekundy. Takže bych ocenil jasné informace o těchto nastaveních. Díky předem za pomoc. Gregoryleo [/ QUOTE]
[QUOTE = "tex_548, příspěvek: 150097, člen: 9148"] Přečtěte si zde, https://ausnz.info/car-setup/ [/ QUOTE] Vielen Dank. Es hat mir sehr geholfen
Hang on, you lowered the rear wing from 16 to 5(!)...... And now you can't understand why your rear is loose? You might want to get your aero sorted before you start messing with the suspension. If you start to max out several suspension values (on modern cars at least) that's usually a good indication something else is wrong. And if you insist on running wing 5, you really need to lengthen the gears. The ratio you're using is the default one, which hits the limiter with wing 16, and that's before DRS comes into the picture. Nor can I think of a single instance where you want that much difference between bump and rebound. They're usually no more than a few clicks apart for balance purposes. Building a set-up is like removing a dent in your car. You start with the big hammers, then you get progressively smaller with your tools. So.... Aero and gearing comes first. (Don't forget to take DRS and possbile drafting into account) Then springs and ride-height. Then differentials (if available) Then camber/toe. Dampers and rollbars are the very last thing you normally touch.
it seems so , but I just downloaded setup for this car from net, it was originaly setup for SPA, and I use it as a starting position so no, I do not insist on wing 5, just thougt is is fine...maybe it was wrong ok, try all your suggestion, thank you. It is just - not easy to understand it all together
I hear ya, mate. I'm still learning from my (many, many) mistakes, so you're certainly not alone. But never, ever use a set-up from someone else, unless you're absolutely sure it'll work for you. I can't use any of the set-ups that some of our resident 'aliens' post, because I don't have the skill to handle something that twitchy. The default set-ups aren't bad, and they're very stable so you can get around the track without the car trying to kill you. Once you can do laps within a 2-3 tenths of each other with that, then you can start to change it to your liking. Set-ups are highly personal, and their main use is to make the car comfortable for YOU to drive. A set-up on its own won't make you faster, but if it makes you more comfortable in the car, that'll make you confident enough to push harder, which in turn will make you faster. But downloading a super-stiff and twitchy set-up (which may well be fast) is more likely to make you afraid of spinning, so you'll drive more carefully. Just for reference, with this particular combo, I run wing 10. I can go down to 8, but then it starts to get so squirrelly that it's hit or miss if I can complete a lap.