I own a DFGT for a while now and it has been like that for quite some time.Basically, with FFB or centering only when i turn the wheel to the left there appears to be less resistance than when i turn it to the right.This can be distracting as it throws me off when transitiong at times.What could possibly be the reason behind this?
my G25 has two motors inside, one for right rotation and one for left rotation, I believe the DFGT is similar inside, if so perhaps one of the motors is weak, or has a bad connection
did you check if you are getting full voltage to the motors? or if they are working properly? you need to open up the base and do basic diagnostic do you have tools and any experience fixing electronics and/or mechanical stuff?
I'm pretty sure the DFGT only has one motor, not two. I would try opening the wheel case and inspecting the internal components. Make sure everything is clean and well lubricated (silicone grease is good for plastics) then see if it feels better.
if that is the case, it may be due to broken plastic mounts, causing the wheel to bind in one direction, you may be able to use wire and epoxy like JB weld to fix it, however that may only be a temporary repair, you may want to consider upgrading to something like a Thrustmaster T150
{Yes the DFGT has 1 motor.}I did open up the case but i couldn't make out what exactly was wrong as i don't have experience with this kind of stuff.The one thing i did to this wheel was replacing the 2 screws that keep it steady.When i opened it and inspected it,it looked like there wasn't a lubrication problem at the plastic that the cogwheels roll on.From my plain point of view i know just by the sound and feeling of it that there appears to be much less resistance when its rotating to the left when compared to rotating to the right.It kinda reminded me of this https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Logitech+driving+force+gt+''play''or+''loose''+steering+fix/89068 but mine seems to be much less obvious.
does the wheel rotate the same speed in both directions when it initially calibrates ? did you try using it with the cover off, and look for any cracks or gaps appearing under load? you can also try moving parts by hand to see if there are and broken plastic bits, it could also be an electrical issue do you have a volt meter to check voltage to the motor when rotating in both directions during calibration?
Hello i'm back to this topic after some research i've done. As i mentioned above i don't spot any broken plastic bits/parts after i opened my cover.The wheel seems to calibrate ok but the issue still persists even when i'm disabling it off and on on different degrees(pos).The only thing left is to check voltage to the motor now.I'm not 100%sure about how to do that.Is there someone that can provide a quick quide to perform an electrical check?
It's not dead. It's still operating. The thing is that ffb strength is not distributed equally as powerful when turning leftwards/rightwards on some degrees.Calibrates alright though.
How many race games you tried, when you use windows game controller settings is it an even left right spread, does it calibrate fine in windows? yes, then sensors are fine, look at power n motor, check psu, fine, then check motor, fine, now your fucked The wheel obviously isnt dead, and buying a new one may not be feasable at this moment in time! Are you sure your psu is pushing the required its quite an old wheel (11 years?) Yes, you can research and find model and make of motor and replace, finding make n model should be a peice of cake the way the internet works nowadays, you dont even need the make and model as long as you find a motor with simillar specs, when you know what you need then give ebay a shout, no doubt you will find the orig or spec equivallent there! Issue you also have is cost, is it worth spending $40 to repair an older wheel when $80-120 would buy you a decent modern wheel, you could break yours down and sell as spares to pay towards an upgrade!