I'll point out that I have switched to Heusinkveld Ultimate pedals a long time ago. But when I bought the Fanatec V3's, I added 2 dampers kits from the start, one on the throttle and one on the brake. Brake feel did improve after finding the correct settings for the feel (the brake mod - which I believe to be useful - did not existed yet at that time and I think it is overpriced), but I always wondered why I bought the second damper kit for the throttle. Imo, it brings nothing there, bar a bit stiffer feel... I ended up using it as a replacement for the one on the brake that started leaking after a while. I'd mount it on the brake only.
Yes I know, that's why I haven't got it earlier. I already have the performance kit, and I would say that is a must have! So I had plans on ordering HE pedals, but after close measurements I found that I would have a hard time mounting those to my current sim rig.. So therefore I thought I give the damper kit a try to see if it can add anything. I need more time with it, and will do a review when I've had more play time. But my first impression is really good, it do add a nice hydroulic feel to the brake. I guess it depends though how firm you have the brake, or if you using the hardest setting on the performance kit like Barry on Sim Racing Garage. He said it didn't do much do to his short brake travel. That's what Barry also did. I have my throttle travel at maximum though, and a damper would restrict that travel on my throttle. And also feels like a damper would make the throttle sluggish with slower rebound?
Hi all! Here is a view of my woodscrap made cockpit, with the metalscrap made button box and his spare part renault clio (!) seat. using an old hifi amp for sound and buttkickers. Total cost (without computer/screens/wheel pack) : under 200€ (and the price of audio system if u collect wood for free).
2018: Alienware 21:9 G-Sync with Rseat RS1 by M-Bimmer, on Flickr Rseat RS1 with Alienware 21:9 G-Sync *updated by M-Bimmer, on Flickr Derek Speare designs (DSD) Black Max II by M-Bimmer, on Flickr 2019: Fanatec__CSLelite_RF2 by M-Bimmer, on Flickr When u ditch #console for good #Asus #strix #rtx2080ti #fractaldesign #meshifyc #gskill #corsair #bequiet #z390 #rog #rgb #noctua #simracing #rseat #fanatec #alienware #gsync #sennheiser #buttonbox #clubsport #steam by M-Bimmer, on Flickr
Basically same set up upgraded to the Fanatec DD2 and added a 3rd Buttkicker under the Pedals... Very Surprised how Much the Buttkicker under the pedals added to the Tactile Feel and Immersion The DD2 feels Great CSW 2.5 Is Now retired as a back up wheel Next on the Menu Motion platform!!!
@GrimeyDog A Forza Motorsport branded wheel?! Wrong forum you heathen! Just kidding mate. Is the seat made of leather? If so, how comfortable is it when it's summer and you do a longer stint with full FFB?
I Love the Forza Rim its Sooo comfortable to use much more comfortable than ghe Porsche 918 rim. its the standard Seat that came with the N1 its made from Faux Leather... For Me Its Comfortable... when gets really Hot I crank up the Air Conditioner... Mostly to keep room cool all the electronics the room gets really Hot!!! The Full FFB is just a Ridiculous amount of Power.. Watching the OLED Nm read out Many will be surprised that even with a DD on average they are racing with 10Nm or Less!!! at full power you will Never Make a S curve or Fast Chicane.. wheel has too much fight in it.... The extra power is mainly about the wheel Having Head Room so it can put out the Full Range of FFB Detail while your Cornering with and the wheel is under heavy load... 8+Nm may Not seem like alot but yeah its alotta force to fight trying to make Quick steering inputs.
Hello Guys, think it's time to show you my rig. The main components are a TM T300RS wheel with T3PA-pro pedals, loadcell brake mod and TH8A Shifter. The seat is a Beltenick on seat sliders. The aluminium frame is planed and build by myself, used MAYCAD for drawing everything to design everything according to my wishes. I try to do everything by myself, so the buttonbox also is completely diy. The boost controller ("Dampfrad" in german) is used in AC and Automobilista to control the turbo pressure. Pretty cool, especially when driving in VR. It's on the same position as in the Gr5 DRM cars, so it adds much to immersion. Steering wheels. I love to have steering wheels for all kind of cars, so my collection has grown quite a bit. My allrounder is a 280mm suede rim sitting on a TM base. The wheel is used for all kind of modern GT cars, old but still good. Ferrari 458 Italia with red handles. For all kind of modern street cars, PCARS2 has a lot of them. Genuine 40cm (~15,5'') Nascar steering wheel. It's like driving a bus or truck, but Nascar Racing 2003 is awesome with it. Lotus49 steering wheel. Made in GB and my choice for old open wheeler. Love driving GPL with it! 300mm suede steering wheel for classic GT cars (Gr5 or GR-C) without padle shifters or something like that. Added 2 buttons for GPL sportscar mod (refuel and "DRS" for the Chaparral 2F). TM Ferrari 599 Alcantara wheel. This is my choice for all FWD cars (WTCR, WTCC...), great quality and handling. Love it. DTM steering wheel. Selfmade, based on a 3DRAP.it kit. Carbon fiber plate on a TM GTE wheel base. Only 500 gramms, FFB is unbelivable with this wheel. DIY TM F1-Addon with SIMR-F1 mod in BMW Williams style. Still not 100% done, but nearly finished. Based on a broken F1-Addon wheel. Installed the SIMR-F1 by myself, added some buttons, 4 rotary encoder and 2 rotary switches. Carbon look is watertransfer (made by a friend), handles made of blue Alcantara. Magnetic shifter mod by 3DRAP.it. Still fully PS4 compatible (without the SIMR-F1 display of course). Will sell it when finished, don't drive much formula one. WIP - AMG GT3 steering wheel. Also based on a 3DRAP.it kit, but frontplate and backplate made of carbon fiber. Still much to do. This will be my steering wheel for ACC. So, i hope you like it. Comments welcome.
How dare you do ferrari like that putting a vw sticker over their logo Other than that everythings looking rather nice
Rig 400€ T300 RS 150€ used T3PA with Loadcell 200€ H-Shifter 100€ Lotus wheel ~600€ Seat 300€ Nascar wheel 200€ Alcantara wheel 75€ used F1 Addon + mods ~600€ Buttonbox ~75€ DTM Wheel ~150€ GT classic wheel 130€ Ferrari 458 wheel 50€ AMG GT3 wheel should cost ~ 150€ when finished Samsung O+ for free So, arround 3000€. Plus new PC 1300€.
I posted a few pics of my rig some time ago and want to go more into detail why I build it the way it is. The cockpit should have these characteristics: maximum compatibility even with ancient titles like Race07 and GTR2 a simple and basic program to change force feedback effects high rigidity a clean look (no cable gore) Compatibility Here's the first problem. If I connect all parts to my PC in a normal way, I see the follwing devices in the device manager: Force feedback motor Pedals Shifter Button Box Button Box (there are 2 controllers inside so it counts as 2 devices) Steering wheel Handbrake Older games have a controller limit of 3, here I count 7. To cut it down to 3 without sacrificing anything one has to be a bit creative. First off, the button box can be switched to keyboard mode. After that, windows will treat it as a normal keyboard and it doesn't appears in the device manager. If I assign a command in a game it shows "a" or "h" instead of "Button 1" or "Button 8". It's the only button box on the market I know of that can do that. The device count was now reduced to 5. Still 2 more left. I noticed that the controller for my Heusinkveld pedals have a lot of empty pins on the its circuit (for shifters, another button boxes and even for analogue axes). The documents for the Heusinkveld shifter and handbrake mentioned that these devices can be connected to that pins. If I do that, Windows lists only the pedals in the device manager but shifter and handbrake works as they should. The problem are the cables. I had to made my own because there aren't any premade ones available. And the handbrake needs a load cell amplifer when not using the USB cable. To get a clean look I decided to sleeve the cables. A lot of time and patience was involved. This is how it looks now in the device manager: This setup works with restrictive sims like rFactor 1, GTR2 and Race07 without problems. All buttons and axes are assignable. Simple software The only relevant values to change depending on the game I want to play are overall FFB strength (100% for all sims and ~30% for arcade stuff) maximum rotation That's all. The other values (fricition, inertia, static damping and input filter [=smoothing]) you'll need to adjust only once. I prefer it that way and don't want to use more complex tools like SimCommander. Cable management I hate cable gore. That's why I tried to hide every cable where possible. A nice solution are cable channels specifically made for 40mm aluminum profiles. Before After Eye candy Clean aluminum profiles, anodised bolts and nuts as well as some stickers here and there. These things were of course not necessary but it looks so nice...
continuation from previous page Keyboard replacer Because I don't have much space left to mount a keyboard somewhere on my rig I decided to build a little workaround and use the 10 buttons I can connect to the Heusinkveld controller. The keyboard is needed for games like Dirt Rally or F1 from Codies where some menus won't work with a mouse or rFactor 1/Automobilista where you need the ESC key to exit a session. I took a cheap plastic box from ebay and drilled some holes for the buttons. And while I was at it I fitted an oldschool display into the box cover. I use the buttons for up, down, left, right, F1, F2, F3, space bar, ESC and Enter. The other 2 controlls what page is displayed on the little screen. This way I can navigate through the pit menu when using a steering wheel without button box. And that's it. Sorry for the wall of text.
Oh Wow! Too many fantastic stuff. I think I will copy some of it to my rig in the next months. Thanks for spending my money