I can never make this turn. It s so frustrating. I know that i have to change the wheel lock to achieve it, but then the car becomes very "sensitive" to drive. I have to use handbrake which is not very accurate most of the times
Only setting the steering lock as high as you absolutely need to and at the same time increasing the steering rotation a bit should enable you to get around the hairpin and at the same time have a car that feels pretty much as it always does
For what it is worth I have always left the steering on default and have not had any issues. (Obviously I have not driven all cars around there). That is mainly because I forget to change it. I am not an expert but it is, perhaps, your technique?
Anyway, I will try to practice more on that track. The problem is that in that turn i always go very very slow so it is impossible for the car to turn almost 180 degrees in that speed.
I hated Macau for the roughly four years since it's release... until a couple of weeks ago when I forced myself to learn it - especially the (much hated by me) hairpin. I discovered my problem with the hairpin was that I was turning in too early and hitting the apex at 10 or 11 o-clock instead of 12 o'clock (hope you can visualise that). As a consequence you can't the make it the whole way round (the angle of the car is all wrong) and your left front will hit the wall... then you rage quit ... as I did many times until I figured out what was wrong (and now it seems so silly that I hit the wall so often). So - tips for the hairpin... (1) remember its a permanent yellow flag (the only one in motorsport?) so no passing (2) you need to go dead slow (3) don't turn in too early. I use the BUS STOP sign on the tarmac as a marker - as the sign is about to go under the car I turn hard right and... voila! I get around every time now without fail. Sadly the AI at Macau is... well... broken. The WTCR cars can't do Macau. They hit the wall (mostly at the hairpin but also Lisboa) and 60% or more of the field will retire in a 10-lap race. Worse than that you'll be on a great lap and the car in front will block the track completely for 20 seconds as it messes up the hairpin... again. The FRJs are much better but they are way too slow / reticent / timid in a pack at the hairpin and so there's always a queue to get around. Once the field spreads out though (or if you are running near the front) it's not too bad and I've now had some very fun races against the FRJ AI there.
I've asked for help with the hairpin a while back, and was told to use the bus stop as a reference. Doing that, I can get around the track reliably.
I use default +1 or 2 clicks. Inspired by @Peter Koch 's video I just tried the FR3s at Macau. They were brilliant - a couple of DNFs (it is Macau after all !!) but they were fine on the hairpin and the racing was terrific. So... you can get some great racing at Macau (for me the FRJs and FR3s) but some cars (e.g. WTCR 19) just don't work here...
Thanks. Will try the "bus stop" reference with default steering lock (for beginning). PS Two clicks (from 15 to 17) in default steering lock (in my Honda 2017 WTCC car) + the bus stop trick, made the difference for me. Now the turn has become easier.
Did somebody really say he uses the handbrake in that hairpin...?! Man, then you are too fast, this is not rally. In the real world, last thing I heard on it is that they have an overtaking prohibition in race events there. Which indicates that nge not meant nor allowed to go too fast in there. The hairpin is a technical exercise, a test of skill, and needs utmost precision in navigation, timing and speed, yes. the margin for error is very lcose to nil. S3 have pulled its teeth already by having the AI falling in line and not overtaking or attackign as well. Its in this little piece of tarmac where the men gets separated from the boys. Accept the challenge, and live up to it! Adjust the steering. They do it in real world as well, and live with that steering on the rest fo the track as well. And then practice, practice, practice. Compare it to landing a Hornet on a carrier. Practice makes masters. Repetition forms routine. Those ending up in the wall where never meant to race anyway. LOL. May Kahless be with you.
I once used handbrake in that turn without being fast (i just did it to bring the car in the right positioning for that corner). But it was far from the right move as i had different results every time i did it. Then i just changed steering lock (1 to 2 clicks up) and that made the trick for most cars. My only problem with changing the steering lock is that now the car seems more sensitive to speed (only for that track of course) which i dislike. On the other hand i agree it is a matter of practice
As i said above try increasing the steering ratio as well, that should help with your problem. For gt3s for example i run 580 instead of the normal 540 degrees
I always keep my wheel range to 560 degrees to all my racing games, because i need to have a fixed point (i usually dont race with formulas so i guess 550 - 570 degrees are the sweet spot). So keeping this range and only increasing the built-in steering lock (which is different for every car) you can make the car more twitchy (especially for macau circuit). You dont change both: cause the result wont change.
Isnt the twitchiness what youre complaining about tho? Thats the point. The car will feel as it always does but because of the increased lock youll get around the hairpin
Wrong. That's what i am talking about. The car feels more sensitive in small wheel movements but at the cost of getting around the hairpin. But i guess i will have to live with it
Starting to feel like you dont wanna listen to me I know that just increasing the lock will make the car feel more sensitive. Thats why i increase both the lock (to get around the hairpin) and the steering ratio (to get rid of the added twitchiness). The result is a car that feels normal and gets around the hairpin. You dont have to listen to me of course but then i dont quite get why you opened this thread unless you were hoping the real life race organisers would change the track layout for you
Wait. You mean that if i change the wheel range from e.g 560 to 720 and change both lock from e.g 15 to 17, i will be able to get around the hairpin and not feel car jerkiness?? Cause the ratio (between wheel range:steering lock) will be the same...