Think there's no alterative to more pressure. Seems like the mid part of the tire doesn't have contact to the road at all try to raise pressure until the temperature drop is kind of linear from inside to outside. Maybe after that a camber adjustment is necessary for the most important corners of the track. With some luck you may end up with a better working contact patch and hopefully good temps. Edit: stiffer springs may also bring in some more temperature...
Hm guess ill have to raise the pressure then.. Already understeering tho (even with less weird temps) so not really wanting to do that either.. . Guess i know why im not a huge fan of creating setups, so many compromises everywhere and no easy solutions
Know what you mean. And the introduction of asymmetrical setups added another level of complexity... I often end up using the stock setups and try to dial in some oversteer - not sure if that makes me faster, makes it more funny at least. By the way: what's the track and car you're having that temp problem with?
Are your lap times good? If so, I wouldn´t go on a wild goose change trying to solve a problem that doesn´t exist.
Not really, basically the same as with the r8 and judging by the special event leaderboard the porsche should definitely be the faster car at the moment
As with any setup advice, the general rules only apply when you are already in the normal operating range of the car/tires. While you can manipulate the tire temps slightly with different pressures, it is far more important to keep the pressures around the optimum as well. The IMO temps are a very handy tool to find both the optimum pressures and camber. As someone already mentioned, you want a roughly linear progression from the inner to middle to outer temps, any deviation from this indicates wrong tire pressures. Higher than linear middle temps means too high, lower too low. Camber causes the offset between the inner and outer temp, generally you want this to be around 5-10c difference. Hint: the optimum pressures for gt3 will be roughly 180 kPa .
If the temperature difference left/right is too high you can also try to lower the ARBs because that gives more load to the wheel on the outside. Lower ARBs result in more rolling therefore you may increase camber for compensation. Alltogether you have to try if you can find a neutral balance with that. Its always a give and take to find a sweet spot. Better tire contact patch (per temperature) or better wheel loads (by suspension). Somewhere in between you will find the optimum laptime or a more stable car.
Just as a follow up question Does the camber part apply to all cars or just the ones on new physics? Because on 3.5 degrees front camber in the dtm 2016 inside and outside temps are only 1 degree apart.. . Havent tried yet but would seem that it would then be a necessity to run max camber on these cars..?
It works properly on the newer physics, older cars it can vary, definitely not on those modern dtms i guess.
After driving the fr90 a couple days ago im wondering how new is new enough. Anything that has adjustable tire pressures or only the very newest as in from the december update and onwards? Because in the fr90 i almost had to double the default rear camber to get the temperature difference up to 5 degrees (although something about the fr90 tire temps is weird anyways so they might just be an exception)