@RWB Charger one thing I'm noticing is that you have your wheel set to 900deg. I don't believe the game can communicate correct rotation per car for that wheelbase (same with most osw type wheels). The Porsche wheel rotation is something like 500deg. So you are giving yourself a huge mechanical advantage there, which will make the forces at the wheel smaller. Try setting the rotation in your wheel software to match the rotation for the car (given in top right of the setup menu) and see if that helps.
So we should be changing the rotation at the wheelbase each time we drive a different car(assuming rotation is different)? That's the first I've heard of this. I thought the game handled this.
Does the game change it for you or not? I can't say for sure as I don't have an accuforce. It does on TM, Logitech and fanatec but not on all wheels. You can test it by changing the rotation on the setup menu down to 180 or something and see if your wheel hits the stops at that rotation (your real wheel should perfectly match the input meter if they are synced) If your wheel doesn't sync then yes you have to manually set the rotation per car.
Got it. I'll double check but I'm certain mine has always matched in game rotation despite having 900deg setup on the wheelbase.
Pre update yes you had to set it per car but now it does actually do it automatically on Accuforce, I checked with the in game steering wheel and it does scale, the soft lock was there at 540 degrees in the Porker so I don't think it's that.
Although I will set it at 540 on wheel to see if it does actually change the FFB, it may be that it is visually scaling and have a soft lock but it may be that the forces are not compressing, will test later.
So bit of testing, now running 60% strength in game but I am having to double each car individual FFB, it feels great and just hits clipping on high kerbs in loaded corners, if I put it on to 80% then I can lower the car FFB but it will clip more as it is hitting the overall clip ceiling, just don't see why 50% before with near standard per car FFB now translates to 60% with double per car FFB? Seems to be the per car FFB values have been lowered hence we have to use more overall strength. Can also confirm that changes to the RCS file do stick and not get overwritten even without setting read only, I changed the rumble strip magnitude to 0.25 from 0.15 and they are more pronounced, value is 0 off to 1, so if you want more rumble feeling without adding the fake bump amplification which I believe doesn't help the rumble then up that value instead, try the F3 around Nurburgring.
Sorry to burst your bubble but the rumble strip setting in RCS is only for gamepads. Does nothing on a wheel. With a wheel there is nothing to change in the RCS that you can't change through the game menu.
lol, maybe because i turned up the per car ffb then But if that is the case why are my settings for accuforce different to fanatec dd in that section, neither of us use controllers?
Probably just some untidy filing or it carried the setting through from your old profile. Either way, its just ignored when using a wheel. Re the overall strength and car multipliers, they basically do exactly the same thing, so if you raise one you can lower the other. As long as the overall strength you pick gives you a little leeway to adjust up and down on the car multi then you are good.
Yes i get the trade off between overall strength and per car multi, 80% at say default multi vs 60% at double multi, my problem is the range, I have never had to increase the in game FFB more than 50% in any sim while I am running full 13nm on wheel, that's a 6-7nm peak, now it's 60% which is near 8nm and double per car so probably hitting 10nm peak +, but let me tell you it isn't near 10nm, why is a DD clipping??? Same as 80% as normal per car multi 80% is over 10nm peak (that's at default on AF if you use responsive it peaks at 16nm so around 12-13nm) and if you do it that way it clips into the red a lot, fine balance is now needed, but even at 10nm it doesn't feel anywhere near as strong! For instance one of my admin use 50% on a Fanatec DD wheel rated at 25Nm, effectively the base then is 12.5nm, he uses 50% in game therefore using around 6-7nm where I used to be at and he finds it weighty at normal per car multi, so mine at 50% with a max of 13nm with base per car multi should peak at around the same 6-7nm but it feels lighter than a G25 unless I double the car multi, something isn't right with AF profile, it's like it's treating it as a Fanatec V2.5 which is around 7-8nm peak. I have done the 100% challenge on the Accuforce before in Raceroom, that was 100% in game strength and normal per car multi and let me tell you that was fooking hard work, impossible to drive but now it's doable with ease? I've had this Accuforce 4 years and I know how it feels in a lot of sims based on strength of FFB and range of clipping, I'm not saying it feels bad but there is a very very fine line now between power ceiling and clipping where as before I could stick it on 50% and crank up or down the per car multi a couple of clicks and be well within clipping range.
@RWB Charger can you get us a screengrab of your in game ffb settings and also your accuforce software settings please? Cheers. Edit: and if possible a video showing what your ffb meter is doing when driving.
@RWB Charger given the settings I posted earlier in the thread for me result in a per car FFB ranging from 0.5 to a maximum of 2 ( very strong feel) I feel an underlying issue remains. A similar situation I had to what you describe was when starting the game through the SC4 software the SC4 profile was not being activated and connected to the game. The bottom right corner of the SC4 window should show the current profile connected to the game. To fix the issue, with the game still running I had to ALT TAB out to SC4 and click the game start icon in SC4 a second time and it gives the message "attaching profile to an already running game". With this very strong feel my FFB graph stays very close to the bottom with a maximum height over kerbs at about 50%. I never get anywhere near clipping. When the specific SC4 profile does not load your base wheel profile will be used. If your base wheel profile is like mine it will be set to "Recruit Level FFB" ( Very Very Soft). This can be changed to a heavy FFB if desired. Pitlane Racing Jason ( Accuforce User) does a review video and he mentions that he no longer uses a specific SC4 profile. He just turns on the wheel and goes racing, so he is using the base wheel settings. This is what my base settings look like. Keep patience these issues are hard hard to deal with but there are lots of accuforce users with very good results similar to mine. The way each of our PCs hardware interprets the messages from the game may also be an influence.
Cheers Wayne, yeah it isn't that, I used to use the AF without SC4, my base settings are the same except 900 and on default and flashed to the base so if I use it without then it's definitely on higher than recruit, also the profile is loading fine I double checked. Did some more testing and have come to some sort of compromise that actually feels pretty good without clipping, so I am set at 60% (theoretically around 8nm peak) and have to double the per car multi still but the main problem was the transition I have discovered between say going straight and corner weight, on a straight it was light and dead with a loose feeling and in corners it would suddenly come alive, not great when you are driving something like the BMW 92 DTM which we did tonight as slides would go from weighty to light when catching and then kick back hard, there was no gradual weight shift. So for instance I am at 3 multi on the BMW with 60% strength, weight is good when it shifts but dead in middle, not using SC4 profile, it seems if you set the linearity to 75%, i.e halfway it actually feels more like 1:1, it has weight in the centre and transitions nicely through corners, also adds a bit of road feel, so for the moment I am going to run it like that, need to test some Formula cars before I can say I'm happy but I had a blast on the Beemers tonight!!
Why not run at higher overall strength and lower car multiplier? Those two settings do the same thing.
Doesn't really matter which way I do it to be honest, something is still amiss, I used to run 50% before with a multi adjustment of say -0.5/+0.5 pretty much the same strength I run all the sims so running at 80% would theoretically peak at 10.4nm which would be way too heavy for me on other sims but it doesn't feel like 10.4 on Raceroom. For instance last night we were doing some testing with another one of our guys who has the Fanatec DD, he had his on 50% and was hitting 12.5nm as you would expect and it was pulling his arms out, considering I have 13nm and on old FFB if I ran it at 100% with standard car multi it would also pull my arms out (undriveable) but now at 100% it's driveable, just weird, like the AF is being treated as a lower strength wheel hence trying the linearity thing which does work to even the force out. I mean it could be my base but then it would do it with other sims, in ACC I run 50% and it's very lively. I have to do some more testing and will produce a video with the FFB meter to show the effect, need to try some Formula cars as they can really peak on the meter.