It happens in all three pedals. It always goes back to zero immediately upon pressing another pedal. I spent about thirty minutes testing and this only seems to happen about 2-3 percent of the time. Sometimes the opposite happens: a pedal might not register full input. This is more rare. I know the pots aren't dirty -- dirty pots are "spiky". These are stable. I have three theories: 1. Inadequate shielding or grounding. 2. I leave the bottom unscrewed for easier access for cleaning and maintenance. Maybe tightening it back would fix it. But I have to find the screws... 3. Perhaps I'm simply expecting an unreasonable level of accuracy. Being that the problem corrects itself as soon as another pedal is modulated, the only time this would affect my lap times is when it doesn't register full throttle input at the beginning of a straight, and I don't notice it. Your thoughts?
You can set the pedals dead zone in R3E settings, for 2-3 percents you probably won't feel the difference.
Not sure of the cause but you can cure the symptoms by adding a small deadzone to the beginning and end of each pedal travel (it's in control settings somewhere). It's always a good idea with pot based pedals anyway, then you can be sure you are getting max throttle and no brake when you don't want it.
Thanks for the help. I was already aware that I could set the dead zones; I just wanted to see if I could adjust the root problem. I'll set the dead zones as a last resort. I'll go on the hunt for those screws to tighten it together tomorrow. If anyone has any further tips, they will be appreciated.
check everything with an external calibration program , like di view , you will then see if they are sticking in one or more areas , alsoyou can then play with a few settings to give you best results , and you wont have to set dead zones in every game , just run diview in the background Andi
Do you combine the T3PAs with a non-Thrustmaster Wheel ? I had similar issues back then, with Logitech it didn't work out.
Link, please. Yep, I'm using an ancient Logitech Momo. The pedals are plugged directly into the computer with the TM USB adapter.
As insecure as Windows is, I wanted to get a link that I knew was legitimate. I'm reasonably certain I can trust you. Thanks.
I simply adjusted the upper and lower deadzone of the thrustmaster pedals. Now I use G27 pedals with the same problems.
I set a five-percent dead-zone at each end for all of the pedals. It works fine and hasn't affected my driving. So is this infrequent sticking at a few percent -- or not quite registering all input until another input is pressed -- just something inherent with pot-based systems? If it is then I feel better, as it means that I'm not really at a disadvantage against other players.
Whooo, thats truely ancient but was top-notch back then, got one myself. Though I strongly recommend something more advanced, even just a little more advanced ... Had the T3 PAs combined with the DFGT via USB adapter and got calibration issues constantly more or less. Sold it to a guy with TM Wheel (to get rid off his stock pedals) who was happy to get them for a fair price and there were no complaints at all..... Got a well preserved G27 from a friend after and both wheels (G27/DFGT) are superior to the Momo and they still doing a good job. (Changed to Fanatec last year and that really was a Quantum-Jump in terms of FFB, handling, immersion & sensivity )