Ive noticed that I need to throw the throttle pedal way past 70% travel before a car goes into racing speed. Anywhere below 50% and the car crawls. It feels like a built in low sensitivity is there despite no in dead zones set, pedals set at 50% (linear) both fanatec app and in game reading showing response from 0-100% and calibration in DIView shows 1:1 driver/windows response. It feels really weird when driving front wheel cars as the margin to get just the right amount of throttle or you get massive power understeer ( a natural side effect of these cars under power) , is so small i struggle to be competitive. In GT3 cars its not so bad. With the brake notice on the same corners as my leading competitor (car in front of me) that i slow down at a lesser rate meaning I will close the gap almost as if I have only applied partial pressure but on corners which require very fast reductions of speed i have to brake earlier than my competitor. I also notice that the effect braking takes place much like the issue with the throttle in the 70%+ area which is making brake modulation very hard. Eg I will 100% brake and I have to hold 100 almost all the way to the apex. If i modulate to say 80% the brake effectiveness is too low and i miss my turn spot so in order to combat this i have to 100% for longer and come off entirely and turn rather than 100 90 70 (turning to apex) 60 (holding) off ( trial braking) in game settings show full response on the meter. on track input display full response fanatec app and DIview app all the same.. I recently cleaned the POTS with electronic spray as suggested in a another post i made as i had flickering pots. Now i have replacement POTS as back up too and fulyy functioning default pots after cleaning them. Is this rather odd sensitivity built in to Fanatec CSL elite (non load cell) or something with the Thrustmaster TX (edited) profile im using? Is the game getting confused with the fanatec pedal ranges that are now in place of the Thrustmaster pedals that the default profile uses?
I'm going to suggest that the problem is outside of R3E since I have no such issues myself. (T300 with G27 pedals.) I have no problems modulating throttle or brake, and in fact most of the time I seem to be braking somewhat later than most of my (human) opponents, while still making the corner.
I made i custom wheel profile to see if it would help but the behavior is still the same. Ill have to test it in other sims to check if it is hardware related. If it is still present ill have to switch out the pots with the new ones i got from Fanatec and hope that it helps.
Have you altered your brake pedal sensitivity? At 50%, pedal response is linear, below 50% it would draw a convex curve while above 50% it's concave.
click on brake, throttle and clutch retap the pedal for each binfd , go into advanced and watch the tracvel of each pedal ingame Andi
"no dead zones set, pedals set at 50% (linear) both fanatec app and in game reading showing response from 0-100% and calibration in DIView shows 1:1 driver/windows response." I have also replaced the POTS in my CSL Elite with new replacements and the issue is still the same
We've found this issue on the FR-US, this is the video of a league mate, note that he is using 0 % throttle sensitivity but I found the same issue on my side with all default settings:
It seems more extreme (throttle) in the WTCC cars than GT3. Also attached my control profile if it contains any details Alex can spot that may be an issue. Also noticed that my Tyres are 180+ leaving the pits (GT3) then they cool to 160's. Dash display showsd brake temps going into a red box on every corner. Unsure what working temps are supposed to be. Brakes on default set up pressures. If there are any more tests I can run and record let me know what info you want me to display on screen any car and track combos etc just ask.
Right, so there are a few different things going off here; Regarding the delayed response you're getting when pulling away from stationary, this is due to the way the game controls the engine's idle. It's simulating an idle control valve which effectively is applying throttle when the engine is idling to maintain revs. Depending on the car it may be applying 20 or 30% throttle just to keep the engine running. For something heavily turbocharged, more throttle will be needed at idle to keep it ticking over as off-boost power will be quite small. What this means to the driver is that to pull away, you have to first exceed that throttle level before you can increase engine revs. This I'm going to say is also related to the turbocharges. Boost pressure won't reach 100% until you apply full throttle, and when off-boost power is vastly reduced. Taking the FR-US as an example, power on boost is ~675hp,whereas off-boost it will only put out 270hp. The same applies to the WTCR cars, the Honda for example runs 1.6-bar boost (above atmospheric) giving 354 hp, or just 136 when not at pressure. Now the braking, that's a different story. Are you racing online or against AI? As long as you're getting full brake pressure the car will be slowing down as quickly as it can do. When you see the brake temperature box change to red, this simply means that the optimum pressure has been exceeded, so the braking power from that point will gradually decline as the temperatures rise further. It's nothing to be concerned about until they are several 100 degrees-C above that point.
OK Thats good to know. It seemed rather confusing but it is a relief to know that there isnt anything wrong with my pedals. Ref the brake red warning. This is happening on every braking opportunity so I gather that 95% which seems to be default pressure for many cars is simply too high and is causing excessive heat generation over the course of my online races and thus brake fade? Thanks Alex
In game, it works as you see in the graph below. X-axis is temperature, Y-axis is Mu (or coefficient of friction)
Is that the same across all cars @Alex Hodgkinson or are the optimum brake temps different....eg the fx17 and formula junior must have vastly different brake systems if they were real life cars? Would it be possible to publish a list of operating tyre and brake temps for all cars? Would be very helpful to know this information when setting cars up...
Indeed and as we cannot increase/decrease brake cooling or tyre pressures we can rely on brake pressure only and considering the default 95% pressure is causing most cars to go way past the efficiency almost instantly (especially the AMG GT3) if the above graph guide is global then we will have to find out what the best setting is. Lowering it will obviously make for cooler brakes under pressure but you can get to a point that the pressure is too low that the stopping power becomes too weak. The point of adjustable brake cooling is to combat this so you can balance fierce stopping power with more open ducts and visa versa and we cant alter brake ducts at all
Each car (or rather brake type) has it's own optimum temperature, which you can find by taking note of when the HUD temperatures change colour. I shared the graph to show that brake drop-off is equal and mirrored either side of the peak, and that performance is actually quite good over a wide range. With the graph above, which would apply to GT3, 300 to 700 degrees is quite acceptable, and all cars generally hover around those values, only dipping below on long straights.
Can you alter the textures so that there are green amber red boxes? The AMG GT3 at Imola comes out of the garage and come the first corner its showing red and in the 700+ mid braking which is in acceptable levels according to your graph but the display sits at off (non red) then showing red instantly which can throw people off if they are monitoring the wheel display if they have no idea that 700-800 is fine. If it was green when not using the brakes and in mid range temps then amber during the peak temps then red only when its way past best say 900 that would be more obvious and a better learning visual guide. Is that possible?