Updated ffb and Fanatec CSL Elite

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Michael L, Jun 24, 2021.

  1. Michael L

    Michael L Member

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    I wonder what your experience is with the new ffb update? I found that I had to lower the MULT by .2 or .3 for most cars to avoid clipping in the ffb meter. This was with in-game ffb strength set to 100.
    Also, what's your FEI setting? If I understand the new ffb post, I believe I need to set it to close to 0 so it doesn't apply any filtering. Is that correct?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Alex

    Alex Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    I still haven't tested much, but clipping did not appear too severe (just some minor peaks) with default settings.
    I have an CSL Elite 1.1 and use FEI to 100 (which is equivalent to no filter).

    You can refer ti the CSL Elite FAQ (here https://fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels-wheel-bases/wheel-bases/csl-elite-wheel-base-v1.1):
     
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  3. Michael L

    Michael L Member

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  4. Alex

    Alex Well-Known Member

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    I've seen that discussion on the forum also, but I can only guess that they've changed the values meanwhile. That forum post was referring to the first FEI implementation I think.
     
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  5. Pierre Hox

    Pierre Hox New Member

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    It's very frustrating to read users that "can feel what the car is doing" or "feel the loss of grip" while on my CSL, the FFB is just heavy in turns, without any subtilities.
    All settings in-game are default, on wheel : FF : 100, DRI : 2, FEI : 100, FOR : 100, SPR : Off, DPR : 100, SHO : 90.
    What "magic" setting do I have to change to feel something ?
     
  6. Ricardo Rebelo

    Ricardo Rebelo Member

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    That was my initial feeling with mine, but I used the FFB Meter and saw that the wheel was clipping. So, as the OP, I basically had to lower the FFB Multiplier and costumize it by car to regain some feeling.
     
  7. Pierre Hox

    Pierre Hox New Member

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    I switched to an old profile in-game which I thought felt a little better, then switched back to my current profile ( too lazy to rebind everything :) ) I then changed some settings on the wheel, a little bit more of this, little bit less of that and after 4 laps on the Nords in the Porsche GT3, I think I can live with that new FFB after all :)
    Maybe I got used to the new feel, I don't know...
     
  8. Pierre Hox

    Pierre Hox New Member

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    No clipping for me... The FFB meter is part of my HUD now :)
     
  9. Enrik

    Enrik Member

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    I have also CSL v 1.1, I'm fine with it. As I wrote on general discussion my setting is:
    Ingame - default
    Wheel setting (Formula Carbon) - FF : 90, DRI : -2, FEI : 60, FOR : 90, SPR : Off, DPR : 100, SHO : 90
    Cars multiplier depending... GT3 between 1 and 1.2, DTM around 1.4, others cars before was 2.2 now 1.5/1.6.
     
  10. Michael L

    Michael L Member

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    I'm pretty new to Raceroom so I don't really know how is the feeling supposed to feel either, except the major ones that I could detect like loss traction (but I could rarely correct it without spinning out). I had my Elite CSL set to FF:70, DRI:0, FEI:100, FOR:100 SPR:100, DPR:100. Then the cars I tried (DTM 2016 BMW M4, 911GT3, P1 etc...) all had spikes in the red (clipping) with the default setup when turning hard so I lowered the MULT from .1 to .3.
     
  11. Alex

    Alex Well-Known Member

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    After some testing these are my preferred settings:

    In game: all defaults, I've tried the immersion settings (canned effects) but didn't like those

    Wheel settings (CSL Elite 1.1 with Formula V2 wheel):
    SEN: Auto - so the game can control wheel rotation
    FF: 100
    DRI: OFF - negative values made the wheel heavy and slugglish, positive values too light
    FEI: 100 - lowering for me makes it loose to much details
    FOR: 100
    SPR: OFF - it's unused by the game
    DPR: 100 - this should be on for the stationary friction
    SHO: 100
     
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  12. Michael L

    Michael L Member

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    @Alex Did you have to change the MULT of each car or do you use the default MULT? The default MULT showed pikes in the red when turning hard for most cars that I tried so I had to lower it.
     
  13. Alex

    Alex Well-Known Member

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    In the cars I've tried I've never decreased the FFB multiplier. As you can see on this Thomas Jansen FFB tips thread, you can keep some peaks in red:
    Most of the cars I've tried only had small peaks in the red with default multiplier, so I've increased some.
    I think it also depends on the tracks you're using.
    Here's some of what I tried:
    Porshe 919 RSR 2019: 1.8 (+0.2)
    Porsche 911 GT3 R: 1.7 (unchanged)
    McLaren 650S GT3 (still undecided on this): 1.9 or 2.0 (+0.3 to +0.4)
    FR JR (need more testing): 2.1 (+0.1)
    FR2: 1.5 (unchanged)
    Audi R18: 1.6 (+0.1)
    Porsche 962: 2.0 (unchanged)

    Hope this helps!
     
  14. Michael L

    Michael L Member

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    @Alex Thanks! You have me something to reference. I'll reset the ones I played and will try again.

    Btw, I had my CSL elite WB+ settings same as yours, except my FF was 70 as 100 was too strong for me.
     
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  15. M Stofmeel

    M Stofmeel Member Beta tester

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    On my CSL Elite PS4 I use FEI 50 to have a reasonably smooth signal with some slight grain at higher loads which doesn't feel too unnatural. At FEI 100, just like iRacing, the ffb signal is just too sawtoothy for me and doesn't feel nice.

    As for Drift Mode, I can't stress enough how important it is to use whatever is the least resistance mode for you. For the CSL Elite PS4 with the latest firmware this is DRI 0, but I think on older models and firmwares this can be anywhere from 0 to +5. Just make sure to have a completely free spinning wheel in the menu, without any spring effect or friction slowing the wheel down. Having such friction slows down the wheels response speed to auto corrective forces and just adds unnecessary force under load, much like an elastic band.

    Previously a negative value of DRI was necessary to stop the wheel from going crazy while letting go of it on the straights. Negative DRI added damping and friction so that the wheel kind of auto centered on the straights, but that's not necessary and actually counter effective now. The new pneumatic trail and gyroscopic forces (if I've understood the devs correctly) will center the wheel when you give it a tug and let go on the straights.

    Correct behaviour is your wheel overshooting the center a couple of times, with less amplitude each time until it centers itself. If your wheel centers immediately without overshooting the center at all, that means you have too much added friction/damping in your wheel software.
     
  16. Enrik

    Enrik Member

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    I have to try to modify DRI because I never touch this parameter. I have -2 for all my games (ACC, RF2, DR 2.0..) but you give me couriosity. I'll try. Yes is true.. I feel like an elastic put the wheel to the centre.