FFB Update Discussion Thread (June 2021)

CSL DD in compatibility mode (yellow led) and worked fine in R3E now (with normal PC mode with red led the display of my rim isn't working)

https://discord.com/channels/254906072748261376/255313744442163200/877631384179593236

 

I have no collision FFB if i bump into another car but get such an effect if they hit me or if i hit the track physical elements

Is that only me?

 

Unless they changed something in the last month since I have driven in R3E, they removed all collisions. I get nothing if I hit a car, guardrail or anything else.

 

Thats where i feel its weird because a car hitting me or me hitting a guardrail, i am getting a ffb effect
But if i hit a car i get nothing

 

These are things that I don't even notice because I want to win races and therefore avoid touching my opponents as much as possible ...

 

There was an update that allows the CSL DD to work in PC mode with RaceRoom. When I tried it, no matter what I did, the wheel would not automatically match what the on screen wheel was doing. I had to switch the wheel base from "aut" (automatic) and lower or raise the sensitivity until the wheel match what was happening on screen. This is a royal pain in the butt, so I switched back to compatibility mode, where every thing works fine. Even having the wheel in "Aut" allows the game to set soft locks...

When I get the time, I will look and see if I have switched soft locks off somewhere? Maybe that is causing the issue? Perhaps it happened when I modified the "Default" setting into what I am using for compatibility mode?

 

can anyone recommend decent ffb settings for the g29 ? thanks

 

Hello everyone, I'm an absolute beginner in simracing, just bought a G29 and trying for the very first time the FFB. I'm testing the game free to play with the Saleem on Portimao.
I've followed instructions in DDF guide but still have some doubts:
1) even with Bump amplifier set at 50% I barely feel something when hitting curbs, even the big orange ones, at high speeds. For instance I feel much more the road roughness while driving straight across the starting line. Is this normal? I expect to feel much more when hitting a curb that send the car in the air...
2) Minimum braking effect, even when the wheels get blocked...

 

Do sector 3 recommended these Fanatec recommended settings im sure I remember seeing something posted that no additional wheel damping should be used?

Podium Wheel Base DD1 / Podium Racing Wheel F1® PS4™

Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF 45
FFS Peak
NDP 25
NFR 5
NIN 0
INT 4
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BLI User Preference
SHO 100
BRF User Preference


In-Game Settings:
Advanced Settings:
Speed Sensitive Steering: 0
Steering Sensitivity: 50

Force Feedback:
Force Feedback: Checked
Inverted Force Feedback: Checked
FFB Strength: 70
FFB Linearity: 100
FFB Minimum Force: 0
FFB Maximum Force: 100
Stationary Friction: 50
Engine Vibrations: 0
Bump Amplification: 0
Gearshift Effects: 0

 

Look that for dd1

 

@Hervé45 That is really close to mine apart from strength I have 45 but linearity is peak and min brake force mines 83 what pedals do you have? And I have interpolation at 4. What force do you have set in the game?

 

It's not my settings....50% ffb in game.....setup default
It's settings of Thomas Jansen
I have a simucube 1

 

cheers, I will amend my ingame ffb but they have made a 100% difference to how raceroom feels, the DD1 now feels like I thought it would feel when I first bought it in march, only took 8 months!

 

I have been playing with a little bit (5%) NFR and sometimes also 5% NDP to get a tiny bit more weight in the wheel when driving in a straight line. Not sure how much difference this actually makes, but 25% NDP as recommended by Fanatec is WAAY too much. 5% NDP is absolute max, or else the game feels soggy. I also have INT at 3, to smoothen things out a little bit.

Setting NDP, NFR, NIN and INT to 0% (OFF) is a good starting point, and probably a good final setting as well.

The key here, in my opinion, is to at least NOT set NDP to as much as 25%, as recommended by Fanatec. The game dampens the wheel just fine on its own, and I experience no oscillations with everything at 0%.

I have FF set to 100% and running 40-50% strength in game.

Other games with lesser FFB need these settings more, to prevent oscillations and other bad stuff. Raceroom handles the wheel just fine without any "help" from these settings.

 

The lack of rumble feel on braking had been putting me off the Game for quite few weeks.

I have spent my Japanese Sunday afternoon to play RRE only on various tracks combo like MidOhio, Spa and Sepang.

I had 2 FFB controller preset on test, with and without canned effects and I was quite surprised to finally get road feel without having to use the slider in the FFB advanced settings

my wheel is the TSPC racer and I had previously used the road bump trick on the rcs file, then the aforementioned in game canned effect so I can really notice the feeling now without any tweaks

sorry if that doesn't sound like great beautiful news as I and am joining the party late but I thought it woudl be worth mentioning.

Could it be that it came up in one of the recent updates, if so sorry because I didn't even notice the changelogs

 

Yah no it was there a long time ago.
But at least it was there when you were ready yah know.
And now ya know it’s there. It’s time to go racing yah know?
So don’t worry about it bro.
Just put the peddle down and drive, ya know?
Yah you know

 

Hi Bro. I am sorry but I don't speak Yo language so well so what do ya mean?

 

No changes to ffb for a long time. What have you now done differently? Some tracks have more bumps than others.

 

Thanks
I am very sensitive to road feel and that’s why I was using your road bump rcs tweaking since 2020 without the need to switch on my bass shakers all the time as I could get feedback through the wheel

my 2 reference tracks are Spa and Mid Ohio

I have not created a controller set in Game from scratch but used what I had since the June 2021 game update

TM firmware and drivers for my wheel have been updated end last year but I didn’t change my TM CP settings nor switched on the new BOOST function

it’s fine if in the end I don’t isolate the trigger, most importantly for me it’s that it’s in there now

will do more testing tonight if time permits