I would like to make some suggestions to the developers: avoid engaging N gear with the car NOT stopped. provide a range of abs levels provide a tc2 independent setting . I have also noticed that tyre pressures go down instead of up as temperatures rise... what is the logic of the pressures to adjust them? is it possible to have documentation of tyre physics as a function of pressure and temperature?
I would like to ask for a revert for classic cars to the previous tire model. They weren't used in any race, so maybe I was one of really little persons to drive them now and then. But with the new tire model there is no point at all in drive them. Well, unless that's the intention in which case ignore this silly post, please.
for example: if I want to achieve 26 psi(180 kpa) I have to set a value of 185 in the setup because during running I have a pressure drop of about 3-4 kpa... another question: is there a logic of optimum pressures depending on the car and the compound? I don't know, a table, something that explains based on coded tyre physics like KUNOS do
here it goes for example: if I want to achieve 26 psi(180 kpa) I have to set a value of 185 in the setup because during running I have a pressure drop of about 3-4 kpa...
sorry but how many degrees are they heated to?... Because usually you set a cold pressure that is lower than the operating pressure anyway precisely because the preheated tires, as soon as they are on the run tend to cool down but after 3 laps they reach the operating temperature (which certainly also depends on other factors such as the bb, asphalt temperature etc) which is usually higher than the preheat, and therefore consequently the pressures increase by that delta between cold and hot press. So I have to set a cold pressure in the setup and after 2o3 laps of the track check the pressures. What you say then makes me think that the tires in rr physics are preheated like 90 degrees? And then then the operating pressure drops along with the operating temperature which is 75/80 degrees? When I come out of the pits the indicated tire temperature is around 70 degrees so there is not a lot of preheating... and when they get to operating around 79/80 degrees, the pressure stays down about 3/4 points... I honestly don't understand the logic... maybe I am missing something, that is why I am asking for clarification. How many mpa do you think I need to set in the setup to achieve a constant 27 psi at operating temperature, in competition?
@doomsday You're talking about temperatures but never mentioned what temperatures you actually get, you're only assuming what they are. Read the link, all the logic is explained there, and don't apply your ACC knowledge because it's different here: https://forum.kw-studios.com/index.php?threads/adjusting-tyre-pressures.16575/ Doesn't matter what pressure you get, what you want is a uniform temperature gradient over each tyre.
that's the problem. it doesn't matter the number, it matters that they don't come up to temperature and drop in pressure while driving. i'm asking about the official logic of the physics of rr tyres i would like to know: the tyres work best with: t=xx p=YY and I remind you that it's not the temperature that matters as much as the pressure, which are related anyway
any but let us not dwell on numbers but on theory. I start with a cold pressure x I do 3 laps, stop, check the hot pressure and calculate the difference from the cold starting pressure to change the cold pressure. So that, with tyres at temperature, I also find the desired pressure. here it's not a question of acc or rr or others, in my opinion it's a question of operating principle. again, let's leave the numbers alone. Maybe 70 on rr is the ideal temp and 24psi the ideal pressure for example. but both do not follow a working logic. I'm not making a ruthless criticism of the game I like it very much and personally have recommended it to many people. Mine is meant to be constructive criticism for improvement. I understand that the logic of rr is to reach the temperature and pressure as it is... in my opinion it's unrealistic because for tyres pressure is basic for performance along with temperature... perhaps my english is not perfect but I hope it is understandable
The tyre temperatures in the setup menu actually show you information about both the ideal pressures and temperatures. Green means your tyres were very close to optimal at the shown temperature, towards blue they are too cold, towards red they are too hot. at ideal tyre pressures, inside/middle/outside part of the tyre will be pushed into the road evenly, leading to an even temperature progression from outside to middle to inside temperatures (such as the rear right tyre in the picture). Tyre pressures too low will mean that the middle part of the tyre is not pushed onto the road as much, leading to lower temperatures in the middle of the tyre relative to the inside and outside (front left in the picture). Vice versa for tyre pressures that are too high, the middle temperature will be higher. (front right in the picture) So just from this you can get a pretty close estimate of the ideal temperatures and pressures for this car (the FR2), ideal temps probably around 80-85 and ideal pressures around 140-145kPa (these ideal temperatures and pressures can vary widely between classes!)
Is my understanding correct that pressures are also usually different between left and right tyres? Because most tracks give uneven load to left and right wheels. And front and rear too, because of different tyre size and weight distribution.
but it's obvious!(I thought I didn't have to specify it)..... it is a target value, which of course can be different front back right left... it's called adjusting pressures... anyway... maybe I explained myself wrong, I meant to know the optimal tyre pressure value range to work on. Pirelli, for example, indicates in the new-generation gt3 slicks a window of 26-27 psi to stay within and a temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Celsius... this is what i would like to know from rr tyres
To me it's not the same: a number can either be a target (then you're trying to hit it as accurately as possible or reasonable) or you adjust it to get a desired result, in which case it doesn't matter what the number actually is, if you're getting the result you need. Which is what I wrote: ---- Also, in my comment above what I meant is your pressures will be different on track, even after you adjusted your pressures as described in the guide.