I’m a little lost, with the new tyre model. Does the tyre update affect, how we used to setup the tires i.e., temperatures. Before, I tried to get approx. a 10 celsius difference inside/outside tyre profile, & in the middle +-5 celsius between inside/outside e.g., 82/87/92, as the optimal operating range. This no longer seems to work, and despite increasing camber, I can no longer reach the figures above, with the new tyre model. Does anybody know, what the ideal operating range is, with the new tyre model? Hope you guys can help, thanks
Temperature difference between inside and outside was a little overdone before. What you want to aim for now is about 5 degC inside to outside and you'll be thereabouts.
Ok, got it, thanks Alex. That was approx. what I was getting when testing Merry Xmas & Happy New Year
Is that (roughly) the goal for all cars and also for front and rear tires or are there further differences to be expected?
It's a generalisation to work for which will get you in the ballpark. For deeper tuning you'd need to start looking at data logging and analysis.
So that means reducing camber dramatically on stuff like the Gt3s and WTCRs or has that already been changed in default setups?
Havent tried wtcr yet but so far i find myself having to massively increase camber with pretty much everything ive tried. What temperature differences are you getting for gt3?
I haven´t played it yet. I guess what Alex meant and I didn´t get the first time I read is that the new tyre model already has that reduced difference baked in to it.
Yes, I’m pretty sure that’s what he meant, I’m going for +5 degC between inside/outside, & depending on how the car reacts when the tyres warm up, between 2-3 degC for the middle value. If I get understeer though, which I’ve noticed, I’ll increase front negative camber, & dial it back at the rear.
Guys, the camber settings are supposed to be the same as before, it's just the temperature spread that's smaller now.
Well at the moment (for me) its either big changes or getting nowhere near 5 degrees. Would you then suggest just leaving them at default (as long as i dont wanna look at telemetry data) even if that means say only 2-3 degree difference at the front and even less for the rears?
All you should really need to be doing with setups is tailoring the base for the circuit rather than drastically moving away from it. Defaults are almost always made on the Nordschleife which has a fairly equal balance of left and right hand turns. However when you move to shorter circuits asymmetrical setups are needed. For example Donington Park National only has 3 left handers and 6 right handers. Therefore the left hand side rubber, particularly the front left, need to be absolutely optimised in terms of pressure and camber. The right hand side tyres also need to be kept switched on considering they have an easy ride for a lot of the lap. The more you can make those inside tyres work the easier the lift of the outside tyre will be too.
After trying the Audi DTM in the Nurburgring competition, it seems that car is very easy to roll over at low speeds and not on particularly extreme curbing either. The Mustang takes just about any curb without issues (apart from the big sausage ones at the final chicane) and the M3 is in between.
Relatively high centre of gravity, narrow track and a lot of grip will have that effect. Watch some races back from the period and you'll see that drivers did not go hard over apex kerbs and occasionally cars did indeed end up of their roofs. A particular karting series I raced in had so much grip the karts could lift on to two wheels in certain turns so you just had to drive in a way that would not encourage it. It is a real world problem