Setup for McLaren MP4

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by seriousnewb, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. seriousnewb

    seriousnewb New Member

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    I'm no expert but I do okay. Enjoying the game at least which is the point I guess and supporting by buying content. I use an old DFGT wheel modded for paddle shifters and I seem to get on okay. I'm no expert at all in terms of car setups, frankly I haven't clue but would like to know more :)

    I've been driving the Audi TT, GT3 and DTM 2013 around for example Nordschleife and I somehow can stay on the track. Heck even in the Audi R18 LMP I do okay. The GT3 McLaren seems very erratic somehow, understeer I guess you'd call it, where the car seems to spin out at the slightest touch.

    I've tried using the traction control options for the McLaren in GT3 and added a couple of clicks to the wing. I'd like some advice if possible on what if anything I can do to improve things. Or maybe they're simulating how the car is. Widow maker perhaps ;)
     
  2. rad

    rad Well-Known Member

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    If cars spins out, thats oversteer ;) Understeer is when it doesn't want to change direction.

    Weird. I find McLaren super stable on default setup and quite easy to drive compared to, let's say SLS.

    Generally, if you oversteer:
    in general, try increasing springs in front or decreasing springs in back
    in slow corners, try increasing antiroll bar (ARB) in front or decreasing in back
    in fast corners, try increasing rear wing or decreasing front wing/splitter
    on corner entry, try increasing rebounds in back or decreasing bumps in front
    on corner exit, try increasing bumps in back or decreasing rebounds in front

    I'm not 100% sure about last two. I think the values work opposite to how spring work, so higher value gives more grip (but car gets less responsive).

    And those rules are opposite in case of too much understeer.
     
  3. Not Lifting Off

    Not Lifting Off Well-Known Member

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    Car set up forum.
    https://forum.sector3studios.com/index.php?forums/car-setups.78/
    Or you could just lower the car as far as possible, med-hard front, soft to med rear, 100% traction control and little or no wing.
    It works!
    100% traction control is like all driving aids rolled into one, it seems to save everything!
     
  4. seriousnewb

    seriousnewb New Member

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    Thanks guys for the detailed replies, helps a lot!!

    Sorry yes oversteer. Seems even after DiRT rally on PC got the console tutorials explaining everything in detail that I still don't get it :)

    I've mapped a couple of buttons controlling traction and set 6 to 100% so I'm trying that.

    I'll have a look at all those settings. I assume most are pre-race settings, and that you can save as a setup profile and not something you activate while you're running like traction or DRS? If so I'll be running out of buttons. There's always the keyboard I guess.

    I would have thought that increasing the wing increases down force and so increases stability and traction. Little or no wing is then interesting. Learning as I said.
     
  5. .OG Isaac

    .OG Isaac Well-Known Member Beta tester

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    It's traction control though!
     
  6. seriousnewb

    seriousnewb New Member

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  7. seriousnewb

    seriousnewb New Member

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    I recorded some game play showing how the MP4 spins out. I tried the Nordschleife settings based on Z4, didn't seem to help as such. I'll keep practicing ;)
     
  8. Not Lifting Off

    Not Lifting Off Well-Known Member

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    You need to learn the track!
    1st one, kerb sucked you in n spat you out, your driving.
    2nd similar scenario, same reasoning
    and same again for the third, timing of the braking and gear change. I didnt watch anymore.
    Couple of suggestions, i dont know your race\driving experience or what your using as a controller so dont take it the wrong way, your braking, slowing and changing down in places you should be pushing, in second and slowing when you should be in 4th pushing, dont be shy on the right pedal.
    Learn the track, in fact learn them all, its nice to just jump in and race, but its so much nicer when you jump in and race with a little knowledge.
    Go and do the leaderboard challenge, you only need do a couple of laps and you will see instantly what i mean. Do a couple of hotlaps on your own get a baseline time then go and challenge a time 2 or 3 secs faster than yours, wash rinse and repeat. Its worth it, huge benefits to be had.
    It could just be that the car and you arnt suited.

    Like i said dont want to put you off or offend you but i think you have more to worry about with track knowledge than keeping the Mclaren on the road.
    Meant to be helpful not disrespectful nor rude!
     
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  9. rad

    rad Well-Known Member

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    I was fast forwarding mostly, so could miss some

    2:43 - you just can't drive on a curb like that, they heavily destabilize car
    4:50 - not sure, my guess is you hit brakes to hard + too early downshift
    8:48 - way too fast there
    14:10 - same as in 4:50
    17:39 - same again
    18:03 - again + dirty tires

    From what i've seen i can tell that you are probably new to simracing and for sure new to Nordschleife. So at this point you shouldn't worry about setup too much - adjusting gears in some cars is all you need right now.

    You downshift to early and waaaay to much, which causes most of your spins. And if think you hit brakes too hard. Be more gentle to car and it will repay you with same :)

    Look at this from 7:13
     
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  10. Soddyn

    Soddyn Active Member

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    I watched your video, the first crash at 2:48 was because you stepped on the inside curb while accelerating and turning, you should avoid that, especially on high curbs. The other crashes seem to be a mixture of braking too hard/shifting down while turning.

    Here's the time stamp of the crashes in case anyone wants to take a look.
    2:48 4:48 8:48 14:07 14:43 15:22 17:37 17:59

    You also seem unfamiliar with the track, braking too early or even when you don't need to, not using the whole track, especially when exiting a turn, maybe you can post a video of a track you are comfortable with, so we can have a better look.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016
  11. seriousnewb

    seriousnewb New Member

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    Thanks all for the detailed and courteous replies.

    @Not Lifting Off - no offence taken, you couldn't offend me if you tried ;)

    Long story short, I bought a wheel following the release of DiRT in EA on Steam last year and which has been my game since. I found a secondhand DFGT with wheel stand for a decent price and added the granturgismo mod for paddle shifters.

    I could use a better wheel, perhaps a T300RS at some point but I'm in no hurry. I wouldn't have the time to play to justify a purchase anyway.

    I think I installed RRE back in 2013. I remember trying the free LMP style car on one of their own tracks, using a 360 pad and of course got nowhere. At one point later I bought the old 90 Quattro and Bathurst, again useless with a game pad.

    It was the release of DiRT that finally got me looking into a wheel and I haven't looked back, or stopped crashing since ;)

    I was aware that Simbin became S3 and that Bell formerly of Simbin was behind for example Project Cars. I follow Empty Box, ISR and GamerMuscle on YouTube so I try to keep up to date on things. So I became aware of the latest RRE major updates, and since I get their marketing emails. So I came back to RRE to try it again as I'd heard the FFB had been improved and for me, being a novice and with a basic wheel its a revelation. I should add that I find the out of box FFB from RRE way ahead of DiRT. The latter released with the same FFB as DiRT 3, they said as much, they had no idea how poor it was.

    Some videos on setting up FFB for DiRT appear to pretty much dial it down completely which I don't understand. Through trial and error I think the FFB for DiRT on my end is now okay, but no where near what RRE has. I dropped a note to Paul Coleman about it.

    I made the video, firstly since I invested in a new rig and as said I wanted to show my problems. Which now of course are much worse than just spinning out the MP4 :)

    I'm not and will never be the competitive player, don't have the time nor the equipment. Perhaps for me its about the experience of the thing right now. I only know about no traction control for DTM cars from a video on the 2013 M3 DTM by Chris Harris. Incidentally the new Top Gear will be interesting given that the two main presenters appear to be accomplished racing drivers. Both have done the Nurb 24h at least.

    Perhaps I should try to begin by learning the track as you all point out, and maybe using the Audi TT, R8 or Z4. Its definitely back to basics for me, heck I've never even really started.

    By the way I've read comments that Assetto Corsa, which I never really got the the hang of, has become a bit arcadey. I must have another go as I haven't tried it for ages.

    For now DiRT Rally and RRE alone will keep me busy. I've ordered a TrackIR which will be interesting. Actually on the TrackIR website RRE was listed as RaceRoom Driving Experience. I tweeted them about it.

    Thanks again all, I'll keep practicing ;)
     
  12. Mz Baker

    Mz Baker Member

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    It does seem to me like shifting weight to the front of the car in the middle of the turn is causing most of these and that includes shifting down during the turn.
    You want to do have all or most of your braking done before the turn in, and then back on the power as early as possible,
    accelerating out of the corner.
     
  13. seriousnewb

    seriousnewb New Member

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    Yes that sounds about right, have a lot of practicing to do!
     
  14. c3lix

    c3lix Active Member

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    1. Softer springs can counter the curb spin, the Z4 setup is really hard, your wheels will lose grip with hard setups and going over curbs like this.
    1.1. Go for more traction control, try 80%, it's not a shame to use it. Real GT3 drivers have greatly optimized TC too. If you think you need more power for turning, decrease it in steps.
    2. You shouls move your brake balance more to the front, try 57/58 % with 95% power and the second spin should be out of the world.
    3. too fast, turning and braking will spin you out with the wrong brake balance
     
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  15. Caledonian Wolf

    Caledonian Wolf Well-Known Member

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    People actually use traction control?
     
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  16. Not Lifting Off

    Not Lifting Off Well-Known Member

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    Cant stand it myself, youve seen my driving :) cant spin and fall off the track the way i do with it on, It takes all the fun out of driving but if it helps someone get a foothold in the game all the better!
     
  17. c3lix

    c3lix Active Member

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    I am sorry to say that but your statement is elitist and aims in a wrong direction.

    If you think, TC is only for easy mode, then you are wrong. Why should I make my life harder than a real drivers life and they also feel the whole car, not just the wheel. It makes only sense to use everything to your advantage and you have to find a good balance of TC or you turn like a tank.
     
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  18. Caledonian Wolf

    Caledonian Wolf Well-Known Member

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    Give me a break. Nothing you have written in that post represents any position I hold. "your statement is elitist" Firstly I asked a question. I did not make a statement. Question :- request for information. Statement :- A definite or clear expression of something in speech or writing. I made no mention of anything being for easy mode. You made that up. It might make sense for you to use every advantage you can however I am not that desperate to win and not slow enough to require it. Finally, if you need TC to get your car to go round corners I would suggest you set your car up better.
     
  19. Caledonian Wolf

    Caledonian Wolf Well-Known Member

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    I've seen you drive usually from behind as you pull away into the distance :(.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2016