Brake pressure 95%

I think idea of setting brakes that you mostly don't lock them up came to simracing when pedalsets had simple pots and short range, so idea was to set brakes so that you don't need to modulate brake pressure you did set so that it almost locks up.
Also brake pedal springs were pretty weak in force.

With real cars though you can lock up brakes quite well if pushing enough hard, well many of them at least, can't say too much about high downforce cars.

Brake force is usually calculated in sims with something like 80kgf on brake pedal, which might or might not be accurate to person in question. I did 1 leg squats with 60kg additional weight, that was 160kg on one leg which for example might be deviation from the norm (would be interesting to know what amount of force real racing drivers are putting on brake pedal), but that was when my knees were not busted from other reasons, anyway I'm just pointing out that for me 100% brake pressure may or may not be accurate.

Also there is an effect with braking as g-forces help you push the pedal, actual 100% might or might not be higher than what is currently set.

What OP is experiencing might not be completely related to that 95% instead of 100% but also some effect might be regarding simracing type of brake force setup.

For example putting considerable more brake pressure on brake pedal might or might not be realistically achievable.

I simply don't know if 80kgf on pedal is value used to get brake forces at 100% brake pressure, if it is, then 100% pressure might not be giving quite the excepted braking force.

 

I’ve returned to R3E after a bit of an absence. I did some racing with the F2 car which was awesome but difficult under braking. To stop the front a from locking up I reduced brake pressure to the minimum and move the brake bias back as far as it would go. Then, by using very little brake application, I was able to slow it down without locking up. Does this sound about right or am I missing something?

 

Yup, 100% is better only when using ABS. FRJ is another one that needs less pressure and or more rear balance.

You can also paly about with suspension softness and aero downforce but those 2 basic changes you made are probably the most efficient and noticeable.

 

The problem with this is it's a workaround for poor braking technique. You are setting the brakes up to be very inefficient and so stopping distances will be extended and your lap times will be slow.

It is however VERY difficult to brake with these cars if you have a soft potentiometer based pedal. A stiff load cell brake not only makes them feel more realistic but also enables proper braking technique. I'm no expert but I rarely lock up with my pedals.

 

That what I was worried about. I actually do have load cell brakes (Fanatec V3s) but I find it nigh on impossible not lock the fronts if I don’t make the changes described. There seems to be no throw distance to the brake with this car - as soon as you start braking, you’ve locked the tyres.

 

That's strange then, I don't recall having this problem. Can you stiffen your pedal so small inputs are easier to modulate? I have mine so it's very hard. (Heavily modified Logitech pedals with apelectrix load cell mod)

 

Trick with high downforce cars is to brake as heavy as possible initially, then a gradual decrease of pressure right to the apex, then hit the go switch. Just technique, doesn't take long to get the hang of, start with braking a bit earlier than your usual mark and before long you will be inching your mark deeper and deeper.
Just had a quick spin in the DTM2016 competition and noticed from my first to last lap I was braking 50 metres further along, high downforce cars need you to brake hard and late and to maintain as much corner speed as possible, it's an art when you watch an Alien and they do it lap after lap, at qualifying pace. Guess we'd all best get practicing, one thing, are your tyres up to temperature? Cold tyres will lock up for a pastime and once flat spots come to RR, you're in for a whole lot of misery.

 

Now unlikely but just in case ill throw it out here anyways. Every time i start my pc i have to fully press my brake pedal for it to be calibrated properly. If i dont do that a little tap on the brake results in 100% brake input and that would lead to regular lock ups albeit not neccessarily as soon as i hit the brake so something you could check just to be sure

 

My brakes are setup so that they’re fairly stiff already. I guess I’ll try again to adapt with more vanilla settings. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

Has to be said that stiff brakes arent a must tho. I have just stock g29 pedals and set them up pretty soft as well and have no problems. But most guys do seem to prefer a stiffer brake pedal

 

So now had a moment to give the f2 a go myself. Turned brake pressure up to 100% and didnt make any other setup changes (except for taking a bit of fuel out). Just to throw it out there again i use g29 pedals that are setup so lightly that i can literally push to 100% brake input with a single finger (yes i tried ). Despite that locking wasnt really an issue for me, only if i wanted to and just fully stood on the brakes forever. Ill attach a little video of my laps and maybe it can help you a bit with your braking technique
(Ignore the rest of the driving tho, couldnt drive the f2 to save my life )

 

guys but when you have abs and set 100% should not the system to the work for you?!?
and in gt3 cars there are about 8 to 12 slots for abs and tc, how is this implemented here?!?

 

Abs settings are not currently supported in game. F2 don't have abs at all. I don't think the op has trouble braking with GT3 cars.

 

Thanks that’s helpful, appreciate you doing that. I’ll keep trying as it’s obviously me. I did have a go with the F90 earlier and didn’t have the same issues (brakes seem fantastic on that, shame I can’t drive it for more than a lap without stacking it). I’ll persevere - thanks again.

 

This Automotive Pedal Force Testing application has more information which can help out.