Reply from Fanatec The reason for the wheelbase not recognising the wheel is indeed a broken pin. On the two pictures showing the QR hub and the back of the wheel, you will see that the pin is stuck in its slot on the wheelbase and that it is missing from the wheel. In this case, we are left with a couple of options. 1) We can initiate a Service RMA and have your base and wheel called to our workshop. Here we will have it inspected by our technicians and if we can repair it, we will proceed and create a cost estimate for the repair. The repair time costs € 63,- per hour plus shipping and spare parts. 2) We can create a quote for the spare parts needed for the repair and have them sent to you, which will be the cheaper option, in case you wish and feel comfortable to perform the repair by yourself. Regarding the main cable of the base, we have a manual showing not exactly the main cable, but a replacement of the main PCBA which will still help to get some of the steps done properly. Please check them out and if you wish, we can go with this option. The price for the both the main cables will be 35$ for the QR plus the main cable for the steering wheel and 5$ for the wheelbase main cable. Shipping excluded.
Time for some positive thoughts about hardware of this company, after all my rants: I've committed treason to my salty self and bought another Fanatec(TM) product. I was torn back and forth with deciding, to give the ecosystem another chance, also looking for a smaller rim size and a bit more sturdiness, without spending tooo much. The decision was pretty clear after some thoughts about good ratio of size, weight and unfullfilled demands for certain car types and something for the eye for muh immersion(C)... The Clubsport Formula Carbon Rim Good lord. Luckily i have to say, this piece of kit is a whole different deal in terms of build quality than the P1 rim and actually i'm in love with this Rim after 1 hour, driving the R3E RSR and the F-V10 in AMS1 with it. It's day 1 and i hope, it will work the same after 700 days later, but for now, the first impression is very positive, even excellent! Fingers crossed. Due to it's smaller size and the spot on quick release (actually looking pretty decent for a 300€ rim) sitting on the shaft without any play at all, it's also benefiting the directness of FFB by quite a margin. (against my expectations because of more weight than the P1, i actually even expected the FFB to lose some detail, but the opposite is the case here.) Button presses are sweet (a bit plasticy, but on point and not "crackling" or something) and the funky switch/POV switch usability is way more precise than the P1. I really would like to see this POV switch on the right (even if without the scrolling function) on the P1 rim, because it's A LOT less hit and miss, or "wobbly". The shifterpaddles are feeling pretty nice too. As long, as they are applied fully with all their throw they definetly give you the sensation of being sure to apply the gear. Also they are adjustable, which is a plus! A quirk, i have, are the different points on the shifters in throw, when the "click" happens between both paddles out of the box, but you actually don't notice it while driving, because you apply them fully anyway. (And keep in mind, they're adjustable) Not one single misshift with this rim was experienced, so it seems to communicate flawlessly with the base and your fingers. Another thing is, the shifterpaddles can actually hit your thumb, when your grip around the rim is going a lot behind it (longer fingers or so, but again: Keep in mind, they're adjustable). The paddle applies sooner and most of the time, you don't have to grip it really hard (at least with some karting gloves), so it doesn't happen all the time. While excessive steering lock, the rim can press a bit hard against the side of the index finger on the hand, that is in direction of the turn, it's not thaaat uncomfortable, but worth mentioning. Speaking of gloves: The alcantara gripping surface could be a reason to decide, that some conservation of materials with a pair of gloves is a thought for the future, if you are driving a lot. I think Fanatec offers the possibility, to deliver some alcantara replacement (i'm not abolutely sure, though), but may be a recommendation here, to take this into consideration. After all, i have to say, in terms of build quality, functionality and actual driving, it can improve your experience A LOT, if you're looking for something, that fits modern racing cars, while searching for a mid-end piece of hardware and spending an amount of money, that will not empty your refrigerator for 2 months. I will continue to use the P1 for my H-Shifter drives and older GT/Cup cars, but for newer GTs and Formula/Prototype related stuff, this CS Formula Carbon (at least tested day 1 by now) is a blast and i have no buyers remorse right now. So good job, with this one, Fanatec!
Nice review, I had the carbon and now the v2 and agree with your assessment. Look into thr shifter mod from AMStudio on YouTube for a cheap pretty significant feel upgrade and always use the locking screw, I've been seeing loads of people getting broken pins from not using the screw!
As long, as it doesn't break, it needs no update, i'm happy with it.^^ Yeah, i thought about it with the pins, it sticks absolutely rigid, on the CSL, though, but good recommendation^^
Damn I shouldn't have done that... now I really want this to be real xD.... Limited Orange Edition @DomB I want to talk to your Boss
I need help with my CSL Elite F1® Set - officially licensed for PS4™. At the minute when starting up raceroom my wheel doesn't work and even though it picks up the wheel it saying "missing device" and highlighted in red. My wheel works perfectly for f1 2019 and assetto corsa.
I'm getting a variation of this, but not as extreme. My wheel and pedals are working (ffb is still crap, but that's for another thread) but I'm getting the red message for the pedals. Previously I used a G29 with Fanatec's USB adapter for the pedals and all of the devices were recognised. Now I'm plugging the pedals directly into the wheelbase (CSL Elite PS4) and getting that message.
Make completely new controller profiles, especially if you change you hardware plug-in method. Sometimes a tabula raza is needed for R3E. Pedals plugged to the wheelbase directly are not used as own device anymore, but in a bundle with the wheelbase itself.
Thanks for the review, I ordered the V2 but cancelled it because I got sick from Covid-19. Now I want to buy a Rim again but I think the V2 is a bit to steep in price. Ok it is “only” €60 more than the The Clubsport Formula Carbon Rim but the “only” never stops. Lol At first I thought the clubsports wheel f1 is ok, nice price etc. Then I went to the Clubsport Formula Carbon Rim, because it is “only” €50 higher in price, then I thought o well If I pay that amount of money I better can pay “only” €60 more and then I have the V2. So now I go for right balance and will order the ClubSport Formula Carbon Rim after all. nobody knows if there will be a new rim released by Fanatec in the near future. Waiting on that is waiting forever.
One thing after one week in use was showing up, that has to be mentioned, i almost forgot about that: The most sim-racer-like tool, the Allen key, could be maybe needed. The screws on the front plate became a bit lose or weren't tighten enough out of the box, so the rim was moving a bit. After tighten the screws, the rim sits rock solid until today. Still no buyers remorse...Feels very good and precise, especially for GT and modern formula driving. Even transforms the CSL Elite a bit, things feel not wobbly, when driving with it. Also don't forget, the right sticks 2 way rotary switch function also works ingame, not only for the tuning menu, i was ignoring this fact until the last 2 weeks, when i finally realized, i can map even more necessary unnecessary stuff. They should upgrade the P1 rim with a quick release of that kind. It's WAY more rigid. FFS, even making it 80€ more expensive due to that would be transforming its wobbly and plasticky feel and deliver a way better product, which is worth the money. Instead of a clunky compromise, which feels worse, than some low budget wheels, when the screw once again comes lose on the not-so-quick-release.
Which screws do you mean ? The 8 on the front face ? Ive checked mine as i do with all screw, bolts and nuts on all my hardware when unboxing and they where tight and still are Maybe yours just got missed by QC ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
That's exactly the problem that Fanatec should sort out one day, yes. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ When even Jardier, as sponsored driver of Fanatec hardware had multiple failures of his hardware live on stream, they should really think about improving on that side.^^ I mean the 4 grey 2.5 allen key screws and the 4 smaller silver ones. Fine for you, that you hadn't experienced it. I have experienced it and reported it, which was an information, worth mentioning. Not a major gripe, but still one, that you can prepare for.^^
I’m about to buy a new Wheel because the CSL elite which came with my wheelbase does not have a quick release system. I now have the Formula 1 wheel as well and want to be able to swap the wheels without using an Allen key. I thought the fanatec clubsport steering wheel bmw gt2 looks nice and more or less affordable. Any thoughts on this wheel?
I have had that rim for quite a while now and I have the Elite wheelbase. Fairly heavy presumably because it has the inbuilt vibration motor. I would suggest wearing gloves to protect the alcantara from sweaty hands. Buttons and "flappy paddles" have a nice positive feel. My personal opinion - yes well worth the money I paid.
I have the Formula v2 and Universal HUB and always used the locking screw but after seeing so many broken pins in i decided to just keep using the screw and not risk breaks! 5 years of use now with multiple rim changes each and every night.
Since my "review" of the Formula Carbon, i have used it in longer stints in several games without the locking screw. The Quick release still sits tight and makes a way more rigid impression, compared to the crackly plastic not so quick release of the P1. No pins broken, no clacking, no mechanical play. I would almost think, users haven't pushed their rims on the shaft enough (giggity) so the quick release was not totally "locked on". The overall construction of the quick release mechanism should even contribute to avoidance of any wheel movements over the shaft, without the round "grappling pins" (not the electronic pins, the things, that grab the round notches on the shaft) being fully applied, if the wheel doesn't sit right. I can't quite see, how it can break, without the QR having some kind of wide mechanical play.
When I don't fit the lock screw I can certainly feel more wobble between the base and rim also I hear more metal clank type noise. I don't have an issue with screwing in the screw just to be on the safe side and it's been near 5 years and many hundred rim swaps.