Actually happened now to my P1 rim... EDIT: Fanatec does everything to solve several problems, i got. They really try their best! EDIT2: They REALLY give their best. Without boring with too much detail: My trust is regained big time!
Well, hello Sector 3! Again some Updates took place the last days and I still have this annoying bug that Raceroom states an error for a missing device /the CSP V3 pedals in my case). It seems it has to do with that Raceroom identifies the CSP pedals as a separate device while they are connected to the Fanatec base (and not via USB directly to PC), makes a separate entry in the controls setup but doesn't find this device as the Windows game controller programme just sees the Fanatec base with the pedals axes as a whole. Is this really that hard to fix that we have to life with those repeating wrong error messages?
Sorry. This isn't intended to be political. Please don't take this as such. I just ordered a set of CSL Elite Pedals with the loadcell, and I assume that the Southern California Lockdown due to Covid 19 directly effects Fanatec's US orders. Is this an accurate assumption?
Maybe you are lucky, but Fanatec definetly has informed about possible delays in delivery times. (also here in germany) But actually UPS and overall process was really fast, despite the actual situation. (Had several RMAs and an order in the last month due to some mistakes and some really nice solution to the situation afterwards there and the shipping and processing time was the least problem of them all, actually.) So fingers crossed!
Fingers are definitely crossed. Thanks for the reply. If I am not mistaken, the lockdown started on the 6th and I ordered my gear yesterday night (the 7th). So there's little chance that my order wasn't delayed. It's not the end of the world though. I wasn't trying to get them before the 25th or anything. Just wondering if they were effected. I am jealous that your gear was shipped with UPS. FedEx tends not to knock and then leave expensive packages at your door step, while you are home. LOL
In my local region, UPS is indeed pretty fast and reliable, but i also heard similar stories about them, comparable to yours, in other regions here.
Strange question, but can the brake pedal on the CSL Elite set be plugged into the either the throttle or the Clutches port and read by the circuit board? I'm looking on Fanatec's site to see if there is anything advising against this. If either port can read the brake, then I'll have to find a lot of soft foam or some springs that will allow the pedals to work as a clutch and throttle. Found my answer. It's a no. On page 25/26 of the CSL Loadcell manual, there's a warning about connecting the loadcell brake to the throttle.. "! Important: Do not try to use this port to connect any other device than the CSL Elite Pedals single pedal units, also not the loadcell brake unit!" So much for my silly idea of making these into a budget all Loadcell set of pedals.
I've just found that there is a button to be assigned. It is able to show: Speed, gear, position. (I don't remember more)
The CSLE-LC pedals arrived yesterday. After fighting to get them together, and then borking my CSR wheel with the newest of the two drivers, I got everything working with the older CSLE driver, but my wheel is on its own, cause when I go to open it on the properties page, nothing happens. But it works, so what the heck? I'm probably going to have to roll the driver back to where the CSR wheel works, but that would mean losing USB on the pedals and having to connect them to the wheel. I hope not cause running them in USB gives me so much fidelity. Its easier to be smooth, and even the pedal trays shows it. I don't want to go back to seeing steps when I stomp the clutch, for example. The pedal set is bigger than my CSR set. The throttle on the CSL is stiffer than the old set, and the clutch has exactly the same weight. But the throw on both are a lot longer. Oddly this throw makes the clutch pedal almost feel like the one in my Mazda 6, it just doesn't have the same spring weight (my cars clutch is not digressive) but the accelerator could use a longer pedal face. In time I will get use to heel and toe shifting with it, but right now I got to get use to the new pedals. I've got to set the sensitivity lower, due to not having a stand or a rig, but that will change in the short term. These pedals had me lifting the front of my chair up as I tried to get full braking. The wife may not approve, but I will be buying or making some sort of solution sooner, rather than later. So far, so good. Now I just have other things to upgrade. These pedals are a G.A.S. gateway drug. LOL. EDIT 12/26/2020. I have an issue with the brake pedal's design. With the loadcell measuring how much the pedal arm bends, it seems that where I press on the pedal makes a huge difference in the amount of brake force applied. For example, when I left foot brake, I tend to press at the bottom left side of the pedal face. Doing this, it is impossible for me to achieve 100% brake input. Now if I were to press at the very top of the pedal face, it doesn't take much to get 100% brake input. This is going to take some getting use to, but I now think it's kind of strange that the pedal arm bending is what is measured, and not the force exerted through the elastomer springs. EDIT 12/29/2020. After getting the hang of the pedals, I'm happy enough with their performance. I've gotten use to braking with my foot closer to the top of the pedal. It's a whole lot easier to break as hard as I need to without locking up in most cars. I am still feeling like I have to put my foot through the floor on the Group 4 & 5 cars, but that is now a setup problem and no fault of the pedals. @DomB Is there some place to put a suggestion for Fanatec to make a Hall effect sensor upgrade kit, for the CSL pedals? I'd gladly swap out the Potentiometers for an officially supported hall effect kit.
Hey guys, I have a question regarding the steering angle. Have the problem that my CSL 1.1 let me turn my wheel way more than the car in-game does register my inputs. In other games (F1 I know for sure) the wheelbase has a resistance/lock at the point where the maximum steering angle of the car is reached. Since there are many variables coming into play I ask you guys, do I need to change something in the Fanatec Settings or in Raceroom? And does it change with the cars (so GT3 has different angle than Scirocco)? Thank you for help
Yes I do. I use the recommended fanatec Settings from here: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/657/raceroom-pc-fanatec-recommended-settings SEN AUT FF 100 SHO 100 ABS User Preference DRI -02 FOR 100 SPR 100* DPR 100* BRF User Preference FEI 060
I try to ask in a different way. Is here anybody who has the steering angle locked at the point when the wheel in the car ingame doesn't move further? Am I the only one with that or is it maybe not possible in Raceroom? Is @DomB still active here?
Are you talking about the steering wheel visible in cockpit? The visible lock of the wheel in game is limited. Even if you have set it up to match the real wheel, the ingame wheel will stop at some point. Has nothing to do with your steering wheel, is a limitation of RaceRoom. Any further steering input is still registerd, just not shown. Every car has its own steering lock that you can adjust in the setup menu (but is not part of the setup, instead it's saved per car). The default value is supposed to be the value of the real car. So each car can have a different default steering lock. GT3s usually have 540°, classic cars mostly have a bit more.
Yes exactly that was wat I mean. So now I know that I can't change that. Perfect explanation thank you alot!
The animation is limited when the driver and the wheel are both shown. Hide the driver and keep the wheel displayed and the wheel should move 1:1 when you set it to match your wheel's input.
Hey Guys, im a proud owner of a Fanatec CSW 2.5 Base, and i know that raceroom FFB will change in a near future, but still.. im using the Settings from the official Fanatec page for Raceroom, but the feeling is a bit strange specially around 20 degrees in the center . Can anyone with the same wheel share their settings ?
Looks like the CSL DD is live for the first wave of pre-orders. I didn't look at Fanatec's site until, I got an email telling me that pre-orders are live. Check your junk folders if Fanatec's emails aren't in your in box.