FFB Update Discussion Thread (June 2021)

Reset car specific wheel settings to default for updated cars (steering lock and wheel range), had some weird feeling with F4 when it was updated, reset solved them

 

The only things that would give you strange feelings are min force too high. You shouldn't ever need more than around 3%. And/or running too much bump amplification. There's nothing in there to pull at the wheel other than physics.

 

I've yet to try the new ffb, but I just want to thank all s3 devs for it, simplification of ffb parameters can finally make r3e feel good on simucube based dd

 

Great, could you please share your settings?

 

I think i know what happened. There is new option in the FR2 setup called "drittes Federbein" (third shock absorber in english maybe?). Seems like the physics of the car was reworked, right? I made the mistake of loading my old setups in (that worked brilliantly with the other 2 cars), but it was somehow messing with the new option. After i reset everything to the standard setup the car feels just fine.

 

Yep always look out for physics updates. Id always run a default setup anyway to check things if there feels to be something not right, it's usually an old setup causing it.

 

Thats what i also do usually, but my thought was, that i will get a better understanding of the new FBB when i run the cars like i had before, so i take setup changes out of the equation.

 

like I said I've yet to try it

 

I want to say... i like the direction its going.

But im not completely satisfied with it.
I use a dd1, Ive set the wheel to 100% (i always set it like that) but i limit the output in game, to 50ish percent or so.

Ive only tested it in the audi tt 2016 (no time gotta work, but had to try it), and it feels heavy.

Ive tried both on linearity 100% and 50%.

First of all, the description for linearity is weird to me.
It says that with less linearity, there is a loss in detail; To me, if i have less linearity, ill feel more details (more changes in the ffb, if less linear).

Whilst at 100%, it feels all heavy and really dampened (i got damping at 10%, inertia and friction 0%). And the details are a lot harder to "spot", contrary to the description.

At 50%, it feels more obvious when you lose the grip and when driving closer to the limit.
And the heavy feeling drops off much faster (duh, its not linear).

Maybe its just me (or im doing something wrong with the settings), in the end, and I only just tried one car.

 

At 50 you are boosting low forces which you don't need to do on a DD wheel. So then the force falls off really quickly. If the car is heavy on the steering lower the car ffb multiplier. The TT has fairly light steering anyway (it's basically a road car) so you shouldn't be running it too high on your DD anyway.

 

Just one word: Astonishing!

 

Are there already recommendations regarding CSL Elite TUN menu settings? Any change to what is recommended in the Fanatec forum?

 

0 is no resistance. Negative values are an increasing dampening and positive values are an increasing acceleration. I think I have my CSW 2.5 at -2 right now. Will look into using 0 in the future. Looking at the video of Chris Haye, there will not be any more excessive oscillations.

Looking forward to testing after work.

 

DRI setting is, at least on the Base's i tested, acts as a "Acceleration" multiplier.

- values make the acceleration work against your input, the faster the input the higher the base work against it
feel like dampening

+ values make the acceleration work with your inputs, the faster your input the stronger the acceleration curve.

0 value turns that off completely and gives the most natural Feedback send from the Game

Tested on these Bases:
CSL Elite, CSW 2.5, CSL Elite+ (PS4), DD1, DD2

 

AFAIK it's the same for all Fanatec wheelbases. I haven't heard/read anything else at least. But I'd surely be interested if anybody knows for sure and can point to a source.

Range is from -5 to +3. This was from -5 to +5 in the past, but the two highest accelerating values have been ditched due to being overly exaggerated and thus useless for even the wildest forms of drifting. :-D

 

Here, see this Fanatec FAQ on DRI: https://fanatec.com/us-en/faq/details/id/101

 

Just tried out the Camaro GT3 for a 60 minute race on Road America. Smooth, is the word. One race, one car, is of course not much of a sample but this particular combo was a very nice experience. Before, I had the feeling my wheel was almost disconnected from the car at times and the ffb- effects came in quite abruptly. I could drive with far more precision and continuity with the new ffb-system. Oh, I’m on a G29 wheel…

 

I have a older CSR and need to have DRI on at least 3 or higher to get rid of the wheels belt ect resistance to feel any details. In any sim.