Initial Feedback about the Force Feedback...

I am the owner of a TM TS-PC racer. My first impressions after the update is that the ffb at the top of the chart has improved a lot. But at the bottom it seems to be dead. No potholes, no curbs, the tracks seem to be all freshly paved. I have a feeling that the wheels don't seem to be made of rubber.

 

Sorry for adressing the whole reply to you. It was meant for Masquerader. And as Alex already said this morning, could be a track issue. It is fixed now.
The only point worrying is, that it didn't happen at Bumpiness below 75......but now it's gone and the system works fine for me.

 

I have the same wheel and cannot confirm what you say. But as usual, what you feel has a lot to do with the specific , individual settings in the driver and the car's ffb multiplier. Also personal impressions and level of sensitivity play a role.
I described MY settings some posts above. Maybe this will help.

Regards
Stefan

 

VFX i share you opening post reservations and wonder what are your other on wheel settings please

 

I am running a Thrustmaster T-GT the new ffb seems quite muted, curbs on the track i have driven so far race room raceway & Zandvoort feel ok as I say maybe slightly muted which i don't mind but i am getting next to no feel from the track surfaces now I am very new to RRE as I only purchased the premium pack today so tbh cant tell if its better the the old model or not

 

hi guys, i am on podium dd2, can someone give me good settings for my wheel?!? base and ingame with the new ffb, thks

 

Great you found R3E. As I advised others already, and many others did it here too, read as much as you can and try for your self.
The sim holds explanations under the Tab Forcefeedback for each of the parameters you can change. On top, you can change the FFB multipliers in each car's setup ( you need to be in the pit for accessing the car's setup )
For your type of wheel, you need to set everything at 100% and check the box for setting steering angles by appliction..( or so) in the TM windows driver app.
Leave that untouched for the future.
Youwant to get all what R3E is giving to you and at 2Nm( T-GT)... you will need it.
Real FFB setup starts in R3E.
Go into R3E Settings and setup the profile for your wheel/pedal set ( Controls tab/s ). For FFB, use the recommended values for your wheel. There's a list of profiles incl. your detected wheel/pedal combination. If not , you need to setup a custom profile. Use the info and defaults per wheeltype and strength on the right hand side under the Tab "ForceFeedback" for starters and change later only one of the default settings at a time after testing .
With your wheel, you should set your gain ingame also at 100%.
Set all other values according recommended values.
Immersive FFB Settings :
they have, according to devs, no direct impact on the physics but generate more "feeling"...immersion, hence the name for these.
My preferences are:
Engine vibes at 5-10%. For historical cars even 20% but not essential. May even distract other, more important "vibes" hene stick with a low value.

Road bumps : I have written and tested a lot here over the past 2 days.
My setting is 75%...( bearing in mind that 100% of my wheel's 6.3Nm will end in R3E)
People with high torque DD' may set this at 30-40% and feel the same effects, I could imagine.

Gear-shift : enhances the gearshift impuls on a car. I use 3%, for early sequential cars 5-10%. If you like the big bang every time you are shifting gears, crank it up...

FFB Multipliers in Setups per car:
In the setup of each car you find on the upper right side of the first tab a "FFB Multiplier" figure.
For GT3 cars it shows often 1.5 or 1.6
For Formula cars and some strong historical cars ( i.e. Group 5 ) it shows 2.5 or more.
Now before you change settings, hit the G key on your keyboard when you are in the car. You will notice a new , small window on the left upper side of your screen , showing an upper, red, line and a lower, green, line.
This is the "G-Meter".
Start driving and keep an eye on the dynamic curve produced by the FFB impulses during driving, displaying their strength. The dynamic line should remain between the red and the green line. Too high FFB settings lead to a lot of redline spikes over thecred upper line. These spikes are called "clipping" .A lot of clipping means you put a lot of power into your wheel without any efficient effect. Actually negative as you dampen your "feel" and just add resistance...

Hence try to stay with the FFB multiplier input figures below the upper red line. An occasdional red spike is ok.

In order to work efficient, I recommend to apply + and - FFB to two keys in the ingame controller profile . So you are able to change FFB multiplier on the fly while you are on track and see the result directly in the G-Meter window.

Hope this helped

 

I will give those a go thank for the help it is very much appreciated

 

Keep in mind, I have the small radius Formula V2 wheel rim, thus the overall force is a bit lower than a larger radium wheel (310mm). I would consider those settings to be 90% good/optimized. It's not clear to me yet, if my inertia is perfect and if the game effects should be at the bottom of Fanalab should be 100% as the recommendation article it not specifically clear about a Fanatec DD wheel... I wish RRE would share a recommend settings as a baseline.

Please note, with those settings, I've been able to keep 99.9% all the default FFB settings for each car. Once in a rare while, I have to adjust 1 click up or down.

EDITED: I added 5% of engine vibrations and 30% road bumpiness... I like to feel microvibrations to mimick the tyre rotation at high speed.

 

@vfxpro thanks . Whilst we are not a million miles away on some settings we do have a couple of fundamental differences .

a couple of caveats to start -

whether placebo or not I found the ffb better after yesterdays hot fix
i use in car multiplier down at around 1.1/1.2 in the current car test
current car test is chevy TC1 2017 at watkins glenn - purely as i am racing it next
I find a general lack of underlying road feel - bumps etc are ok just track sensation is a little lacking.

in-game settings same as you except for the road bumps which I have around 75 - this is linked I think to my INT setting ( see later comments) . Engine vibe I tried once and found it way too harsh so it's off for the minute and gearshift is at 40 just cause I like the sensation.

on wheel

FFB - 45 so not too far off your 40
LIN - OFF - I find with it on the cornering feel is a little light as I like to have a sensation of pushing against a corner load feel. This may be tied to the in car multiplier. OFF allows a lower multiplier ON a lower multiplier - so would be interesting to see what your in car multiplier is
NDP - OFF as probably expected with damper I find this mutes the signal and works against my LIN setting
NFR/NIN - both at 10 - definitely needs something and differences between yours and mine are negligible
INT - probably the big one - ~I find at OFF this gives a grainy feel which can be interpreted as road noise but to me it isn't and if you increase the strength of ffb this setting feels horrible to me. I have this currently at 6 . I find I get a better road feel by having this at 3-6 and the road bumps higher

From my initial reel doubts I am now beginning to warm to the feel and can start to feel some of the more subtle feedback