Hi, i had this problem now for 3 times. On the Start/Finish straight of Lausitzring in online multiplayer races (DTM experience) the wheel sometimes starts getting extremely sensitive. On the straight it's shaking and in the corners it's totally inaccurate. This only happend on Lausitzring and only on the straight. So maybe there's a bug with this bump at the beginning... I'm driving with a Logitech G27. Disconnection and Connecting the Wheel solves this problem.
Resetting FFB as mentioned above doesnt reset all of your FFB settings to the defaults. It's a bit different than that, and most sims have this ability. Hmm, think of it this way. All of your FFB settings are set in stone in the menus, so they dont change unless you actually go into the menus and change them yourself. Out on track though... Say your wheel starts to feel weird going around corners or over bumps. Sometimes, the FFB data the game is sending your wheel gets goobered up, is out of sync with whats happening on screen, or some other issue like cutting out entirely. Resetting the FFB basically clears all the data your wheel is getting at that time, and pauses so it can refresh itself, correctly giving your wheel up to date information again. I could be quite wrong on what that setting does technically, but that is the gist of it. It just refreshes the FFB data being sent to your wheel so it can properly give you the feedback you should be experiencing. As for your issue though, Im not really sure. Are you running really strong FFB effects? Maybe the little bumps in the road are more than the wheel can handle for the strength you have it set at. That could explain feeling too much on straights, and not enough in corners. Because the FFB would start clipping and not giving you the information you should be feeling with your hands.
Overall FFB settings is 100%. All other FFB settings are 100% or less. Thank you for the explanation, i will try that the next time the error occurs.
I'm nearly sure with FFB at 100% that you're clipping all the time which may lead to heat issues. Try to reduce the FFB to around 75 (at least) and make sure in the logitech profiler you have 107% on FFB forces (disable everything other effects as they're not needed or at least, spring effect). I say 107% but 100 and 110 are equally linear. Thing is, 100 is usually too weak and at 110 the deadzone is higher. This is true to dfgt as well. Hint, whenever we have a "minimum force" like option try to increase little by little. When the wheel starts to oscillate at standstill you've gonne to far and need to decrease that value. I'm not sure deadzone in R3E has the same effect. This is because that "deadzone" is HUGE in logitech wheel and the motor inside does not start to react up until 25% force is sent or so. Easy to spot with iRacing's wheelcheck app really. I'll leave here the question to a DEV about this. Can we have or do we already (via deadzone option) have this "minimum force" option to scale the FFB so it starts not at 0 strength but at 25% of it (or some value that makes sense). Very useful because the owners of non-linear wheel products are losing too much of the subtle ffb (this means all Logitech and TM owners basically) meaning dead center feel by quite a few degrees as it sometimes it is dead even after you initiate the turn-in hence why it is very important to get that lateral and vertical load settings RIGHT and NO clipping.
I have reduced the ffb to 50% in game and for the time I have played since I did not have that feeling of losing it completely sometimes (especially after bumpers or after an AI catching my tail).