Discussion in 'Car Information and physics updates' started by Alex Hodgkinson, Dec 10, 2019.
Now I see
I have studied this part very well - minumum force doesn't give an effect up to 7, or rather it can, but at FFB 120-125.
If I set it to more than 7, there will be a very strong centering and when I turn the steering wheel after a straight line I will feel a gap between the zero point and turning the steering wheel left/right. This is only in RRE, in RF2/ACC I have a value of 9 and no such alignment.
The most interesting thing is that with a minimum force value above 7(FFB - 100, not 120), there is no FFB in the zero point of the rudder - the FFB chart shows it: https://forum.sector3studios.com/index.php?threads/ffb-guide-december-2019.14067/page-20#post-194531
There is some fluctuation in the graph, so there are indeed forces, but they arent delivered pretty high, so you will probably feel nothing, yeah.
Try this and eliminate value strengths chunk by chunk:
Steering Force Intensity 100
Vertical and lateral steering forces to 50
Minimum Force to 10-15%
Slip Effect to 20-40% (only change this while in the garage, or main menue, to avoid this option, to not apply correctly, sometimes)
Driver FFB strength 100
It's so wheel dependent, how it works correctly for each user, that's why setting up R3E FFB is a neverending story. But this was the case before, now methods have been changed, so it takes another go, to find the new sweet spot.
What settings should i try for a Thrustmaster PC-Racer wheel? The same you mentioned here?
These were basics, i started with on the G27...then refining it.
I think, the TS-PC is more on the CSL level in terms of FFB abilities...so minimum force should probably be 0-2%, the TS-PC should be a pretty beefy piece of kit, that deliver way more subtle stuff.
Slip Effect could be felt around 5-10% already pretty clear
Steering Force intensity on 85% is around the value, i use with a CSL, so could be similar for the TS-PC too...
Vertical and lateral steering forces to 50, then reducing, for killing oscillations, if they appear too strong, especially vertical results in oscillations pretty fast, with stronger wheels, when i got the CSL new at home, it almost ripped a nail off my finger (longer thumbnail because of guitar playing) in a group C car because of that, so it should better not do that too much
Keep Damping on for 20-30% and don't go over 20% steering rack, because recommended after the update (i have it on 0% and it's fine).
All these values are comparable to my CSL FFB settings, but the TS-PC could perform similar, i never tested one, but always heard similar reports of its classification.
also consider fine tuning with the car dependent FFB multiplier
I didn't know it mattered, but of course I'll try all the settings.
I'm now on G.Ortner's settings cause he has the same wheel. A combination of your settings with that one will do fine, must test more about damping and steering rack.
Did the Group 4 cars (Nissan,Porsche) also get the new physics?
I think they are speeding up very slow after the first chicane in Monza.....
or i drive them in a wrong way.
You can find a great list of all car classes and their state of physics development along with other useful information here:
You mentioned a Nissan, but there's none in group 4... Are you talking about group 5 maybe? Anyway, you can see in that list that group 4 has the newest tire model/physics whereas group 5 unfortunately has not been updated yet.
Regarding slow acceleration, that could be due to low revs combined with turbo lag (very pronounced on the gr.4 Porsche RSR). If possible try choosing a shorter ratio for that gear you are exiting that chicane in Monza, to be in a more powerful rev area.
He means Group C
That's it! Group C had completely slipped my mind... I hardly ever drove them, but I think that their turbos behave similarly at low revs, right?
Yeah, you mean Group C cars.^^
Get through the chicane as smooth as possible, be on a low gear and get early on the throttle (right on or slightly before the apex on the exit of the chicane), open it up pretty wide, but DON'T smash it (very important).
The car will regain succ, when on the corner exit, you have to go a bit off the pedal then, possibly, when it starts spinning too much.
You have to be aware of the big turbo lag, so you have to be always a step ahead with your throttle inputs.^^ These cars depend on their strong aero downforce, but in the chicane you have not that much of it, so you have to nail the exits to get on speed early.
All these high boost turbo race cars are something for artist, there is always a bit more left on the table and pedalwork is critical. Keep as much momentum, as possible, a bit, like you would drive a kart
Great settings, everything works - checked on GT3/GT2 Clubsport.
Slip Effect to -40, that's the main thing that helped. With the steering wheel, the TMX is a must point. These are really the correct (most likely the only correct) settings for this wheel. The main thing is the lack of centering, which you get if you just raise min FFB.
All analogies are made with RF2/ACC.
Thank you so much for your help!
For reference, what gain settings do you have in rF2, say for a GT3 car? Then what settings do you have in TM Control Panel?
I can't tell which ones now, because I'm at work. But I do remember that:
Min FFB: 9.
In Thrustmaster settings - all 100.
Ok, and what car gain? No rush,when you check.
I didn't understand the question, to be honest.
Yes Group C,as the others corrected me....
I always drive like hell and lose my time in the first chicane....the opponent cars can accelerate much faster than me,crusin with 70 km/h out of the corner.Last,last..me then.I like the Porsche and hate him at the same time .Must say ,i drive in Amateure mode to learn.
Has someone a setup for these cars in monza?
I don't know, how good these setups are, i forgot, how much work was done for it, but maybe worth a try.^^
where do i put the files/folder?
i see only .uvm in setups folder.
Separate names with a comma.