A different sort of cockpit but I'm glad to have them now. This honeycomb equipment makes a world of difference. Now I just need to find a stand to put them on instead of on my desk!!
This is my setup as of today. It's pretty humble compared to most of what's found in this thread, but it works and it's pretty comfortable. Plus it's out of the way, and far from anyone sleeping in the house. And keeping the chair in place is a ratchet strap. Just to get an idea of how it's situated... It's a work in progress. Eventually I'll get something more sturdy than the Apex stand, but first I am working on adding 2 more monitors.
Try these. Two or three are enough to hold your chair. And its cheap and easy to "set up". I used these with TLCM pedals with brake mods (they are stupidly stiffer than what thrustmaster provides) , on the same wheelstand, felt like pushing into a wall and not moving. My chair had different wheels, not the rubber/latex ones you got, but I think it should work, and be more elegant, lets say
Before the strap, I used a piece of carpet to keep my chair in place, it mostly did the job but there were limits to how hard I could press the brake pedal. So something like that would definitely work. The bigger problem I had was, I never felt as if the chair was in the right place, and spent a lot of time trying to get it where I felt comfortable. Tying the ratchet strap (with hooks) puts the chair exactly where I want it, everytime I set my stand up. I just push the chair right up to the cross bar, thread the strap through the legs of the stand and around the neck of my chair, connect the hooks and I am ready to race. Absolutely no small adjustments after that. And after strapping it in place, I don't have to worry about pressing the brakes too hard. To me, the only thing more solid than this would be a rig.
@Wilko Jones I really like your humble cockpit! Maybe mostly due to the fact that it resembles my own in many aspects! I have a similar wheel stand, and I've tied up my office chair very similarly to yours. With two quite short plain (not ratchet) straps with metal tie locks I've bound the chair from the two corners of the stand, just like you have, but then each attached to a 'front' wheel in a loop around the chair wheel mounts. It works a charm, and it's so rigid that I can't move out of position even if I try to force it in any direction but mostly forwards. Very sturdy solution regarding what I have to use for this as I don't have the space for a stationary rig. But, and here is my point, I have some probs to find my position again after I've used the space or the chair for other purposes due to the fact that the straps get quite hard to undo with the loops around the wheels. Your hook solution gives me hope and new ideas for this problem! So here's a thought: how about looping the single strap (as per your solution judging by the pictures) once or twice around the chair centre piece for sideways stability with your configuration (rope or straps works like a lock under force this way)? That way you could still always loosen/reattach the chair from the stand easily with the hooks, but maybe gain even some more stability? Have you tried that? Maybe in the long run one could use a ring and a snap hook for a more secure bind instead of hooks? I don't know if the later suggestion is relevant if it doesn't come apart by itself when not in use, and as I said, just my thoughts. I think I will try your model as I would like to be be able to disengage the chair a bit easier, despite the fact that I'm happy with the solution I have now in terms of stability. Would be nice to hear about your experience if you've tried any of the models mentioned. Cheers!
It's worth a shot. I'll have to grab another strap from the store. I don't want to undo or adjust my strap, for reasons.
I think we might just have exchanged our very similar but different solutions and experiences in a good way forward for both of us! Thanks for sharing!
I tried wrapping the strap around the neck of the chair, but I lost the ability to quickly adjust the chair's distance with the ratchet. I also noticed that the corners at the base of the stand were poking through the new strap. So I tried threading the strap over and under the legs of the chair's base, and then hooking into the larger channels of the pedal deck, and it worked! Hooked to the pedal deck... Around the chair. Only one pass this time... Over, under, over... The new strap is much easier to set up, and once I got in the chair and adjusted it for my height, the new configuration eliminated all the left to right movement. It also put me dead center on the steering wheel. The best part is instead of needing an 81" (205.74cm) long strap, I can now get away with a 50" (127cm) strap. So I am going to clean up the strap, get a final adjustment, and then zip tie it. The red strap will serve as backup because the orange strap is much cheaper (in quality and price), so I'm looking for it to break. Thanks @Lemmy for inspiring me to take another look at the arrangement. It's much improved and simpler.
Hi all, here is my Tracktime 3Motion with 130SF Actuators and RaceRoom signs on the sides. I started with a triple screen configuartion, but switched very fast to VR. I´m using the Heusinkveld Ultimate pedals and a SimuCube 1 Wheel with 20Nm Mige Motor and the Vive Pro 2, 4 Channel Simvibe, Fanatec Shifter and handbrake. To be honest I drove only iRacing with this thing till know, because the motion feedback and the FFB is much better there. But after the big update, I want to try RaceRoom again, because I always played this sim, before I had a motion cockpit.
Heres my rig, just updated from Fanatec to Simagic DD... https://www.facebook.com/finsimracing/photos/a.103309444845828/406602427849860/
^ Hehe, just got the wheelrim. Wonderful, love it- incredible plenty of bang for the buck. One has to keep on mind however that the costs for an adapter must be added, the rim comes without any. So it costs not 200 but 300 coins, if you have no adapter to untie from a throw-away-wheel. (Shifter still attached due to first-time setting up the wheel, usually I only attach it to another, round wheel that gets replaced soon, too, with a R300/CLS Hub from Black Friday sale - order placed today, this morning). I am about to map RR now, ACC I did yesterday. The nice thing ion aCC is that you can map FOUR command per button, if you want. Thats why the brake+/- switch also houses the engine map selector, and the eye-button in the bottom right corner (former Xbox button) houses VR recentering and camera switching as well. Pinky and the red button right are for seoicb ndsary display ocntrols and pitsotp interaction in ACC. I will map same commands to the same buttons as far as possible in RR and AC, of course. First time ever I have now an analöogue hand brake. Just that the rim does not fit the only games where I need it: Dirt Rally 2, and Wreckfest.
@Skybird, I have the same wheel rim. Your wheel did not come with the plastic Quick Release Lite? I got my QR1 Lite the following day and I did not have to purchase the metal Quick Release. I am certain that all CSL wheel rims, including the CSL Universal hub will come with the QR1 Lite. But that is not the reason I tagged you. I wanted to ask if the holes on the top of your Fanatec Clubsport Shifter Table clamp directly align with the holes on the bottom of your Shifter? I am contemplating getting a new shifter, and the CSS is on my list. If I can use the Table clamp as an adapter for my wheel stand, then that pushes the Fanatec up in my pecking order.
@ Wilko Jones, 1. I had to order the quick release after I got the wheel, I thought a connecting item would be included, buit it wasn't, and the "manual" also does not list any. Further, the item page at Fanatec in the small print also says this wheel rim comes without the QR1. Easy to overread, its pretty much at the end somewhere. Misleading, I do not like this. Now, mind you, this is the wheel version 2. Maybe it was like you say - and I expected - with the first version, I dont know, but now it is no more. Other wheel rims come with the QR1, however. I also ordered the R300 wheel and Clubsport Universal Hub in a bundle with 100 coins off, and there it is included. My original P1 (PS4) wheel for the CSL Elite wheelbase has a worn out paddel mechanic after four years and I needed to replace it, and I wanted a round wheel alternatively to the GT3 wheel, for Rally, Wreckfest, and ETS2. Maybe even some AC cars and RR cars. Thats why I came to the GT3 and R300/Univ Hub. Latter will not be delivered before January, they say. - I considered the 200 coins cheap BF deal R300 CSL Hub, but after having seen Sim Garage's review of it and seeing how twisting and bending and mushy it is, I cancelled the order. It may have been okay for the price, but for itself it did look like a good design idea with a too suboptimal execution, owed to the low price and mushy plastic. And so i went deeper into the money. 2. I am not sure I understood your question correctly, so I just post a pic. The shifter itself I can only recommend, beside not using it much I love it, handling it gives a very satisfying tactile sensation. My table is not very stable so i have to set spring resistence to very soft, if you have the option to fix it in a cockpit frame and can set tighter springs, it feels even better, you then can really "throw" the stick into the next position with some power, that is quite satisfactory in an archaic sense. Also, quickly switching between H-pattern and sequential is a breeze. You cannot go wrong with this one. I don't use it often, but I do not regret to have bought it. Its very well-made, and solid. I expect it to feature long durability. In the image, you can alter the height at wich the clamp connects to the shifter's case. I did not unscrew it to check for your question, but recall that I found the design very clever back then, it gives you plenty of freedom. The screws' holes can be moved freely up and down in the shifter's case, if I recall it correctly, they are no holes drilled directly in the case, but in tiny bits of metal squares that move up and down on sort of rails in the shifter's case. If you drill holes correctly in your cockpit frame like they are in the clamp, it should be possible to move the shifter up and down before fixing it in position, too. My reasonable guess - I have not tried it. Hope I got your question correctly?! - The clamp is a separate buy. And it keeps the item locked in place, I tell you. It has not just the one visible but two big screws.The thin rubber at the top of the clamp I added myself, to protect the table surface and to add grip.