Problem Wheel is asynchronous with ingame wheel

Discussion in 'Community Support' started by NO2_regiert_die_Welt, Dec 10, 2017.

  1. NO2_regiert_die_Welt

    NO2_regiert_die_Welt New Member

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    Hello,
    Im already playing raceroom for a year or so but I never drive in ego view because the wheel is asynchronous with the ingame wheel and it feels very weird. In Assetto Corsa its sync correctly and there I drive in ego view.
    On the picture you can see exactly what I mean.
    Can somebody tell me how I can get a realistic angle for every car + its synced correctly like in assetto corsa.

    best regards G. Malibu
     

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  2. nate

    nate Well-Known Member

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    The driver hands you see on the steering wheel in game only go 180 degrees in either direction. So if you turn your wheel more than that, the hands will just stop and your wheel wont match what you see on screen.

    Try turning off the driver hands to see if your wheel matches up with the in game wheel. As long as you have the 'match setup' option selected in the vehicle settings menu, the in game wheel should match your real wheel.
     
  3. m.bohlken

    m.bohlken Well-Known Member

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    In Addition as the angles doesn't match like your 1/2-Angle-Pic shows... Somewhere in the Settings is a Parameter for Wheel-Range. I think it was in the Controler-Settings. Match that with the Value you have set in the Logitech-Driver-Settings.
     
  4. majuh

    majuh Well-Known Member

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    Is your steering sensitivity set to 50%?
     
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  5. NO2_regiert_die_Welt

    NO2_regiert_die_Welt New Member

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    "match setup" is activated. I changed the wheel angle from the car to 360 but nothing changed.
    I disabled the hands still nothing.

    In the logitech profiler its set to 900° and its working well because the game is allowed to change it and it does indeed. And I dont want to change it because I dont wanna fuck my settings in ETS 2 or AC.

    No its set to 100%

    Now I have the wheel angle back on default on 540° and no hands but it still doesn't match correctly. The start and ending of the wheel is correct but everything between is wrong.
     
  6. Arthur Spooner

    Arthur Spooner Well-Known Member

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    Set the sensitivity back to 50%. 50% means linear input. >50% means that the steering is more sensitive than linear in the beginning, but less in the end. <50% means that the steering is less sensitive in the beginning, but more in the end. The absolute range of the wheel will stay the same, no matter what sensitivity setting you use.
     
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  7. NO2_regiert_die_Welt

    NO2_regiert_die_Welt New Member

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    omg thats why my car was feeling all the years so weird when exiting the corners :S Thanks m8 now its working :D
     
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  8. Arthur Spooner

    Arthur Spooner Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the label "sensitivity" is a bit misleading here. But it's the same for all the other axis too. To fully understand this setting at first sight some kind of graph would be useful.

    I usually leave this at 50% as I want linear input. For steering I could imagine setting it a bit lower to have more subtle control around the center at the expense of less subtle control towards the edges.

    One thing I can recommend - at least for Thrustmaster users - is setting the brake axis to 0%. Most of the better TM-pedals usually come with a rubber-mod for the brake. This means that towards the end of the brake pedal you are stepping against some quite hard piece of rubber to "simulate" the feeling of a real brake. However this doesn't do very much as long as your brake axis is set to linear input. But if you set it to 0% nearly all of the brake input is done towards the end of the pedal movement. Additionally raising the lower deadzone of the brake axis, leads to a brake pedal that has no input at the beginning but nearly all of it happening inside the compression zone of the rubber. And this together makes the brake feel pretty much realistic. It's still not a load cell brake, but it comes very close in terms of how it feels.