Problem FANATEC CSR FFB settings

hello.

new here since I took advantage of the Black Friday Sales to buy the the Premium pack

I had installed the game and tested the free content in the last few weeks but I have been struggling to get the FFB settings right for my FANATEC CSR wheel.
the wheel is old but the motors are still going strong and giving me a good experience in other Racing games titles (namely PC1&2 and AC) but I cant seem to get the FFB right with RRE

wheel feels notchy in tight corners with lack of weight&smoothness overall

the settings in the game are quite by their numbers to be honest and even if the CSR has the possibility to alter quite a few things in the wheel itself, again I am really struggling to get things right to enjoy the game

which is a pity because what I see and close to feel seems really great hence why I took the plunge to buy the Premium pack

I was considering to replace my wheel at Xmas with more of a latest generation one (T300RS or CSL Elite) but if I could avoid ditching the money and keep using my CSR,I wouldn't mind.

any help much appreciated

thanks

Olivier

 

ok thanks thomas,I will try this as a base in the next few days

and thanks for directing me to this FFB guide thread as well,helps for better understanding the impact of all these settings indeed

 

hello Thomas,
thanks again for your guidance. I have tried your settings but I hate to say, the result wasn't great. Might be that my CSR wheel has much lower torque than your CSW2.5 and the wheel was feeling very very light with no FFB and pretty much no under/over-steer or roads effect perceived

To get something more enjoyable, I left below as yours
Force Feedback Intensity: 100%
Smoothing: 0%
Force Feedback Spring: 0%
Force Feedback Damper: 0%

but cranked up these settings
Steering Force Intensity: 50% went to 100%
Force Feedback Minimum Force: 0%
Understeer: 50% went to 100%
Vertical Load: 50% went to 100%
Lateral Force: 50% went to 75%
Steering Rack: 0%

Slip Effect: 0%
Engine Vibrations: 0%
Kerb Vibrations: 20%
Shift Effect: 30%
Collision Effect: 50% went to 100%


Its better, much better than what I had achieved so far, but now that I realized there is a FFBmeter,I can see my wheel clipping in some tight corners

I need to spend some time, that I dont have much..., to do some more tweaking to get the wheel right and start enjoying the game.
I think I am not too far off so again thanks for sharing and directing me to the FFBguide thread this has helped a lot.

 

I have the CSR wheel (non elite) and in R3E, I use the default FFB profile for it. My only change was the slip effect I turned down to 10%.

That mean, I still have the 25% smoothing and 10% in minimum force. Like you said, our wheel is very old and it's, in my opinion way better with this settings.

I only up or down the FFB multiplier on each car.

Don't put the understeer at 100% the wheel go light too much too soon. 60% is great and go to 50% or less if you want a heavier wheel.

You can also play with the steering rack settings. This settings are very personal. 100% mean all the FFB come from the steering rack and 0% from the tires.

On the wheel itself, SEN to OFF, even with the last update of raceroom I now need to change the roatation to match the virtual wheel, doesn't needed before the last update.

FF to 100, SHO to 100, DEA LIN 0, SPR and DPR Off, DRI Off, even if you can play with this one to have a faster recenter wheel to catch a slide easier, but that also made the wheel liter so, personal taste on this one.

And don't forget to bind a key for the FFB graph. Can be helpfull to know if the FFB clip or not when driving

 

Merci Shivas ca fait plasir d avoir de l'aide d'un compatriote...

I am going to try your own settings as well so thanks for sharing.

I didnt mention this earlier but with Thomas settinsg I had really light wheel feeling so I increased the FFB multiplier of teh car I was testing from Std 2.2 to something like 6.It was better but not as smooth as my own tweaking so I went back to std.

Regarding the wheel settings themselves, I also usually leave the SENS OFF in PCars1&2 but in AC/ACC/AMS, I had to set it to 540 to get a proper feel while turning

The rest is as you do with FFB100/Sho 100 and other stuff at 0 or OFF but I set the DRI actually high (4 or even 5) so I get a proper feeling after oversteer

and I did find out about the FFBmeter item so I will bind a key to show clipping in real time

the CSR is a nice little wheel, Old Gen for sure but better than teh DFGT I had 10yrs ago so if I could avoid an update for Xmas, that would great lol) (but yes Fanatec CSL elite and T300Rs, I am looking at you....)

A+

 

New here as well, and I have a Methuselah wheel, er... I mean a CSR. My wheel was driveable, but for the longest it was very grainy or notchy feeling. A lot of times it seemed to momentarily pause in place on screen, and then "catch up" to what I was doing. That prompted me to look into clipping.
I got the wheel dialed to the point where clipping rarely happens, but it was still notchy. I got to the point where I was just going to live with it, but something with Raceroom I wasn't going to live with was frame rates running less than 60FPS.

So I set out to fix that today, and I was successful. Fixing the FPS came with a pleasant side effect. My wheel is now buttery smooth and responds quickly, and none of the freezing in place has happened so far (knocks on wood) Perhaps looking into framerates may yield some results?

I'll add my wheel settings later tonight.

As promised, here are my settings. One note, I did use GamerMuscle's settings and I don't remember if I changed them.

Raceroom Force Feedback Settings
Steering Force Settings:
Steering Force Intensity - 100%
Force Feedback Effect Setting - 0%
Understeer - 90%
Vertical Load - 40%
Lateral Force - 40%
Steering Rack - 100%

Force Feedback Effect Settings:
Slip - 48%
Engine Vibrations - 0%
Kerb Vibrations - 10%
Shift Effect - 15%
Collision - Effect - 0%

My Fanatec CSR settings:
Sen Off
FF 100
Sho 0
Dri Off
Abs Off
Lin 0
Dea 0
Spr 4
Dpr 4
Acl Off

Notes:
I have the wheel's spring setting that high to aid the centering effect, but since fixing the FFB I am going to back that down to 2.
The wheel's Damper settings was to smoothen out the sim's grainy feel, that's going to be reduced or turned off.

 

coming back to this forum after a while spent on another sim sorry. I moved away from the CSR wheel since my post,but what I found in the meantime by opening the wheel case is that the gears in the Motor end towards the back of the wheel, not the small vibration motor one, the big one providing most of FFB, was somehow offset so I had to realign them then the FFB in RRE was getting better.I had to do some fiddling with in Game setting but it was finally good at least to play.

I keep the CSR as spare now because I am running a TM TS PC racer in combination with the CSR pedals, again sorry ifI had not responded to my own thread earlier