Yes, my nice new Thrustmaster T300 GTE Ferrari stopped working. It died. Completely. After just 3 weeks. I had a problem with it from the start in that Windows failed to recognise it, despite following all the advice from tech support. Suddenly though, and for no apparent reason, it worked. It`s failed a couple of times since, but re-installing the drivers/firmware has got it going again. Now, today, it just died altogether; no comforting red `on` light, nothing. I suppose I should have heeded all those 1 star reviews on Amazon On the plus side, I sent it back today and a replacement is scheduled for tomorrow, which is excellent service; the problem is that I don`t trust Thrustmaster now and I`ll bet the new one won`t work either. So, has anyone got some good settings for an X-Box controller?
They value wheel like gold and the quality is this^ :/ my settings: http://cloud-4.steamusercontent.com/ugc/710779492532543416/C736A41CEE816A6C674927B8DA8FF2BF73C39C14/ http://cloud-4.steamusercontent.com/ugc/710779492532544713/D30296EB4F3374C543003313AA3E1819AB759A22/ Just play with the ingame car steering lock value for each car. I use 9-12 value.
The problem is, for that price range there is no other real option. I'm using my 2nd Thrustmaster TX (inside basically same as T300), and i have to say the FFB feels real good on this wheel, I have had G25, G27 before, and TX is way better.... the only problem is the quality. My 1st one died after a half year, got some calibration issues, so i sent back to Thrustmaster, they fixed it. After i sold it, and bought another one, because the wheel got some backlash (back and forward movement, like something loose on the other end of the steering wheel shaft). Was half year ago, the new wheel was pretty tight for a couple of months, but now i have to same loose feeling like with the other one... Now im thinking about a Fanatec CSW, but with the rim and pedals together it climbs above 1000 euros... Probably just try to sell the T300, and go for a T500, it is only cost a little bit more, has much better pedals, and it seems a reliable wheel....
I will buy this bundle at summer: Forza Motorsport CSR wheel value pack XL. ~400euro with shipping to my country. Way better deal than anything from thrustmaster in my country. Actually T300rs cheaper than this bundle. But only two pedal and no shifter. Sooo...
I agree with everything you`ve said here; I think that if this wheel fails I`ll just get a refund and wait until I can afford the extra cash for the t500.
I considered buying a Fanatec wheel, but nobody seems to like them... The T300 is a fantastic wheel, when it works.
In my opinion the Fanatec CSR with Elite pedals (with load cell) is the best deal in this price range (349 EUR +shipping). I use my CSR for about 4 years now without any problems. I also got the Thrustmaster TX, but I don't like it that much, I still prefer my old CSR.
Another Fanatec CSR user here. I've been using mine since December 2011 without a single issue. It's a good wheel.
Maybe I`ll have to think about buying one if the replacement wheel fails. Is yours one of the porsche wheels or the forza one? I don`t think the csr elite is available. I already have the pedals...
No, I've got the CSR Wheel. I think the CSR Elite is no longer available for quiet some time now. It's the official 'Forza' wheel. http://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel-eu.html
I am using the CSR Forza and CSR Elite pedals and have had no issues with them at all. Build quality is good and the FFB is also good IMHO.
Hi, I have a T500RS and the wheel was a bit loose after a short time too. There were two things causing this. The quick release mechanism itself. Since I don't know how familiar you are with it, I'll try to explain (hoping it looks the same on the TX/T300, but since they are compatible I guess it does). At first you need to losen the little screw that goes through the locking nut under the central hub (see attached photo screw_central_hub.jpg) and check if the big locking nut is screwed tightly towards the wheel. If not you will have to screw the locking nut against the wheel really firmly and put the little srew back in its palce afterwards. Be careful to not tighten the little screw too much as the plastic thread can't take too much force. If the wheel feels tight now again you're done. If not or if the locking nut was OK from the beginning look into 2. If the big locking nut was not the (only) reason for the loose wheel you will have to remove the wheel. Unscrew the little screw under the hub (like in 1.) and unscrew the locking nut fom the wheel completely to remove the wheel. After you have removed the wheel you will see something like in the other photo I attached (wheel_off.jpg). In my case the four screws in the corners of the central cross like thingy were lose. I had to tighten them really good but after that the lose wheel problem was gone for me forever. If these screws get lose again maybe a little bit of 'screw-lock-glue' (don't know the english word but I guess you know what I mean) might help. And I don't think you can lose the warranty with it because if you don't do anything but the things I described, you are only using the quick release mechanism of the wheel which is meant to be used like this.
TY for the tip mate. The nut is tight as it should be, but i haven't tried a 2nd before, so i did it now. Unfortunately those screws also super tight for me by default. When i move the wheel back and forth, i can hear the knocking voice from inside the wheel, so i think it is something on the other end of the shaft. Probably i will give a try, and send it back to TM, but im getting tired of it. So most probably even if they repair or change it, i will get rid of it. As i said im really satisfied how it works, but these small annoying things just make me feel "unsafe" about this wheel.
I haven't read this whole thread closely, so I apologize if this has already been suggested, but didn't see it from a skim. You might want to try changing the breakaway portion of the cable. This thing: http://www.amazon.com/Wired-Control...21521&sr=8-3&keywords=xbox+controller+adapter My TX suddenly developed similar symptoms as you are describing. On a hunch, I tried swapping the breakaway connector with another I had laying around and its worked fine since. I've since read of other people who have had similar problems with that part of the cable. Frustrating that such a simple and fundamental part of the wheels are having problems, but fortunately its quick and cheap (only a few bucks if you have to buy another) to fix. Might not be the cause of your problem, but probably worth a try.
Reading this thread makes me happy that I purchased the 3 years extended warranty with my t300 rs. Hopefully it won't die after exactly 3 years
It happened to me with two GFX-Cards: Warranty ran out and boom ! shortly after they died.... My old 100€ Momo did its job for eight years (just the cheap shifter broke) .I opened Wheel and Pedals from time to time for cleansing/maintenance - but thats it. All that tells me that IF I want invest a good amount of money to get something serious I`ll skip all Logitech/Thrustmaster Stuff and go directly to Fanatec (or what else is of decent quality).