absolutely fantastic , steering feel , sound , realism, ffb , who think I'm wrong , you see a camera on board and draw their own conclusions
Mr Crammond stole many hours or my life, mostly trying to write and then get sound drivers to work! Great game though and when 4 came out, wow! still bloody alright now. Funny how those names stick in the memory, Christmas always a good time for a bit of nostalgia, nice touch guys!
sooo.......... I thought that id quickly give this a go and see if the audis ffb was a one off.. and I was very much mistaken!!! The Formula car has great ffb up there with the audis TT.. if this is the level of quality that s3 are basing the ffb on for future and old cars.. hell f yeah!
For those suffering on spins: try to find when this is happening. Decrease power diff to minimum, if you stay on track then, it was generally too much torque that acted on the outer wheel and you driving style doesn't mind if inner wheel is spinning. If it gets worse, you lose touchyfeely thorttle control, it feels sluggish and you can't rotate with thorttle: you are a stiff diff driver and need to raise it. When that preference is clear it's easier to find correct ARB for the rear. In practice, the default diff is ok for every style so no need to actually change that in long term, just to find at what stage you loose your grip, "make it worse" first to find how you drive. If it's snap oversteer when braking, increase toe-in, increase coast lock, increase front bounce. When it's at exit, decrease rear bounce or increase front rebound, soften spring at back. ARB should stay as mass transfer control more than suspension element so first check if it's diff causing problems... Softer power side on diffs are easier to drive, up to a point but they do not accelerate as fast. Stiff diffs snap on you without any warnings, soft diff start squaeling way sooner than you lose control... Alonso is soft diff, Kimi is stiff diff. Vettel is between.
Is there somebody else looking into a big black hole when driving behind those cars? Don't know if it is right but the back of these cars are very dark even when the sun I in your back.
Can you post a screenshot? I haven't noticed anything strange on my end using default medium graphics settings.
I just got back after a week of sim free holidays and of course snapped up the FR2 immediately. S3S have really outdone themselves with these vehicles. They look and sound incredible, feel great to drive, and deliver a fantastic immersive racing experience - if you can ignore the fact that the R3E damage model renders these delicate cars essentially indestructible.
The yellow areas seem quite dark (racetrack & daytime independent). Visibility of bodywork/suspension parts in this section is thereby very limited.
Yea I've noticed that more or less all part in game where shadows are the darkest are more like black hole than a darker shade of what color is in shade.. Edit: (to black should be more dark greyish of that color that is in shade)
The AI is unable to properly race this car, they keep bumping into you and seem unable to part with their pre-defined racing line.
no insult intended but if they are bumping into you a lot it means usually that you are a little slow for them on that track combo ; try lowering your Ai strength as this may help Andi
Who told you that's max? Max for me is 16 or 17(can't remember). 10 is medium downforce. 3-4 is very low and almost what you'd use at Monza. EDIT: I see it's already been pointed out.
No, I don't think it's that, I had the fastest lap time and as long as there are no car in front of me, I'm slightly gaining some time every lap. And when I'm following a car, there is no corner they take faster either so it's not the case of taking a corner more slowly (even so, it wouldn't be an excuse). They just seem to have no situational awareness. If I make a clean take-over - or even after the start when I'm in pole, they can't brake correctly at the next turn, even if they had enough time to prepare (so it's not as if I cut them while turning in). Or they simply bash into me if I'm 75% past them, while they could have maintained their line. I don't have this problem with DTM cars for example, unless it has changed recently. It really reminds me of how dumb AC's AI was before the last update, to a lesser extent but the same idea. EDIT: I don't mean by that last comparison they're dumb, but that they tend to stick to the (programmed) optimal racing line too much - and probably don't brake too well. For the record, it was level 104, so not too high, I should probably try again and increase that.
Agreed. It's nothing to do with speed. Even if you lap a guy before the hairpin at Hockenheim, make sure you stay to the right and not right in front of him on the left on the racing line. It's like they have ABS and 150% brake pressure. You brake at 120 and they start braking at 70, whether you're there or not. I have the same problem in DTM-E.
Not entirely accurate. F1 cars do have a light on the back which signals when a car is harvesting energy/decelerating, it's not activated by hitting the brakes but rather by lifting off the throttle. The engine braking in these cars is very strong due to the ERS and it can decelerate the cars quickly, so the light on the back flashes to let any trailing drivers know that there could be a sudden change in speed. I don't believe GP2 cars have this function as they are not using ERS yet.